Saturday 11 October 2014

Trip to Gwalior, Orccha and Sonagiri : Day 2


Orccha

On day two we started for Orccha 125 km from Gwalior. It is 15km from Jhansi by road. I love road trip for I can intimately connect to new lands. It was a bright sunny day and almost all the fields along the stretch were parched with no trace of standing crops. Bundelkhand, as the region is referred to, is considered relatively dry since it receives modest amount of rainfall. We travelled on the Agra-Mumbai highway to reach Orccha. Half way through we passed Datia, a vibrant town famous for its forts, temples and other monuments. We briefly stopped along the highway near Datia as we spotted a distantly located fort on the top of a hill. Though we couldn’t actually visit the fort, we were informed that the fort was built in 16th century by Bundela Chief Raj Bir Singh Deo and the place was frequented by British Viceroys who loved its architecture and grandeur.
 
Datia Fort
 
Orccha is a small town established by Rudra Pratap, a Bundela Rajput Chieftain in 16th century and lies on River Betwa. Located on a river bank it served as an ideal capital. It is a small town with numerous shrines, temples, monuments strewn around the place. The town is known for its meticulous architectural style. We first visited Ram Raja Mandir popular among the locals and tourists where Lord Rama is worshipped. It was originally the palace of  Bundela King Madhukar Shah. His wife Queen Ganesh Kunwari was a staunch devotee of Lord Rama. She through her dedication brought the idol of Rama from Ayodhya by foot. She wanted to install the idol in a temple and hence gave prior order before her travel to construct a temple for installing the idol. But by the time she returned with idol the temple was not ready. So she placed the idol in her palace. Once the temple was ready, the idol wouldn’t shift from the palace. Since then the palace turned into a religious shrine. Hence the architecture of this temple is akin to a palatial residential complex.  Ram Raja temple is the only temple in India where Lord Rama is offered an armed salutation and worshipped in a palace as a Raja.
Ram Raja Mandir

 To the right side of Ram Raja temple is Chatturbhuj temple, the shrine which was built as per the orders of Rani Ganesh Kunwari to install Lord Rama. Since the construction couldn’t be completed in time, the idol of Lord Rama was worshipped in the palace itself while this temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Chatturbhuj temple is a marvellous piece of architecture, very spacious with a huge mediation hall and hidden stair cases within to reach high elevation. The original idol is missing but makeshift idols have been installed in the mandap currently. The beautifully carved conical shikaras enhance the magnificence of the structure. To reach the temple we had to climb a steep flight of stairs. The temple offers a beautiful view of the Orccha Fort and is directly opposite to Raja Mahal.
Chatturbhuj temple

Orccha Fort complex has three parts- Raja Mahal, Jehangir Mahal, Rai Parveen Mahal. Just as we entered the fort complex on to the right was Raja Mahal with raised balconies and luxurious royal quarters with plain exteriors. This palace construction was started by Raja Rudra Pratap in 1531 and was completed in the reign of Bharati Chandra. The palace had a square plan and divided into two wings with five storeys on three sides and four storeys on one side.  The interiors had exquisite murals with bold, colourful paintings and mirror inlay on ceilings and walls. Most of these paintings are based on the mythological themes of Ramayana and Mahabharata. The inner corridors lead to Sheesh mahal. The walkways are laurelled by domed pavilions giving it a majestic appearance.  We next moved onto the Jahangir Mahal.
 
Raja Mahal
Colourful paintings on walls of Raja Mahal

Jahangir Mahal was built by Vir Singh Deo who was Emperor’s close friend to commemorate the visit of Emperor Jahangir to Orccha. His mother Jodha was a Rajput princess so the palace in his reception was built to display Bundela  Rajput architectural style. The palace is square in plan with five storeys and eight pavilions. The overhanging eaves on the corners of the first storey were held by series of elephant brackets at regular intervals on all sides of the palace. The interiors were liberally embellished with intricate carvings, paintings and decorations. The palace is adorned with graceful Chhatris and the top storey offers a panoramic view of the town and its monuments. The fort complex is safely enclosed behind high walls and is located in lush green environs amply irrigated by waters of the Betwa River. Entire fort complex is located on an island of the river. Behind the Jahangir Mahal is Unt Khana (shelter for Camels) a simple structure and a view from its roof gives an encompassing landscape of the historical town. Behind these Mahals are numerous ruins once shelters of military officers, ministers etc.
Jahangir Mahal
Unt Khana

On to the left side of the fort complex lies a three storied structure, Rai Parveen Mahal  built by Raja Indramani who was smitten by her charms of Rai Parveen, an accomplished dancer, poetess and singer. She was paramour of Indramani. Enthused by stories of her beauty and charisma Emperor Akbar summoned her to his court. Locals say that Rai Parveen impressed the Emperor with her purity of love for King Indramani and so she was sent back to Orccha. The mahal is now surrounded by thick vegetation and hence we dropped our plans of visiting it. Scorching sun played a damp squib by weakening our enthusiasm. Our Orccha trip was in the first of October and still the obstinately high temperatures refused to sink. We had a brief halt at the Betwa Retreat, a M.P Tourism Resort for lunch and then headed towards the acclaimed Cenotaphs or Chhatris lying along the Betwa river front.
 
Shahi Darwaza of Jahangir Mahal

These are group of fifteen Chhatris built in commemoration of Bundela kings and members of their clan. The complex housing the Chhatris opens into a well maintained garden with Chhatris built opposite to each other with a Shivling in the centre. The symmetrical view of cenotaphs within in the complex was breathtaking. Cenotaphs were built on elevated a square platform. Sanctum sanctorum is also square shaped and in the centre. The upper portion has been made angular with arches. The peak is patterned in Nagara style of temple architecture. To have a better view of the place we climbed the stairs within the Chhatris. But due caution must be exercised as the monuments shelter bats and insects.  Vultures, the endangered species in India are omniscient in Orccha. Right next to these Chhatris are two monuments on the river bank which are almost in ruins and one of them is a dilapidated Shiva temple.
 
Cenotaphs or Chhatris

We next visited the Lakshmi Narayana Temple on the outskirts of Orccha. It was built in 17th century by Vir Singh Deo and the temple was dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi. Its construction is an engineering marvel with unique blend of temple and fort architecture. As we stepped inside, it opened up into a triangular corridor leading to the sanctum sanctorum which is on an elevated square platform. The idol of the main deity has been removed but the interiors had vibrant murals with exquisite wall paintings each depicting Dasavataras and stories of Ramayana. Luckily most of the paintings are well preserved retaining their original colour and vivid quality. Coverings of walls and ceilings had a variety of religious and secular subjects. As we circumambulated the sanctum sanctorum, we observed that the inner chambers are built in octagonal shape. This temple has intriguing design and must visit during the trip. Few attractions, which we missed out and must be accommodated in the travel plan, are the light and sound show of the Orccha Fort and availing the provision of home stay in Orccha. Home stay enables a person to stay with a resident family and enjoy local hospitality.
 
Lakshmi Narayana Temple

These consummately beautiful architectural marvels of Central India are undoubtedly the most precious jewels with poignant history. In Orccha some of the monuments are well maintained and perhaps deserve to be included in the UNESCO list of World heritage centres alongside Khajuraho. The medieval town of Orccha is frozen in time with its palaces and temples vibrating in the original grandeur and splendour. It is a silent town devoid of hustle and bustle of crowded cities and an excellent place to fathom the glory of medieval India. With deep reverence towards the rulers who patronised the art and endeavoured to build mammoth structures we returned Gwalior via Sonagiri.

Orccha
 
Sonagiri
 
Sonagiri Hill
Sonagiri is a Digmabara Jain Pilgrimage centre 60 Km from Gwalior and located on the Dabra-Datia road. Since the direct route to Sonagiri was closed for constructing a bridge across Railway crossing we travelled through narrow lanes of villages. Sonagiri is an ancient hill and a sacred place for Jains. Before ascending the hill we visited Kaanch Ka Mandir, down the hill dedicated to Saint Prasvnath. The walls and ceilings of this temple is bedecked with small irregularly cut mirrors. According to legend Kings Nang, Anang and their five and half crore followers obtained nirvana by performing penance on this hill. The walk up the hill was so relaxing and least tiresome as the path was well laid out in tiles and the steps are broad, spread out with small incline. It was an easy climb and none can refrain from appreciating the commendable efforts of the trust in renovating old temples strewn all around the hill.  108 white temples are spread across the hill and the most important one is temple number 57 which was dedicated to 8th Jain Tirthankara Chatranatha. The temple was immaculate and had statues of 77 digambara saints in pristine white marble. Photography was strictly prohibited; hence framed the beauty and grandeur of inner chamber in mind’s eye.  The main attraction of Sonagiri is the 11 ft tall Chandra Prabhu image with an inscription stating that it was placed in Samvat 335. Most tourists visit this place to obtain solace and tranquillity. Located on a hill amidst greenery, chirping birds and dancing peacocks these temples offer perfect ambience for meditation. We watched sunset on the hill and highly savoured those precious moments and headed towards Gwalior. Thus our momentous journey to the central part of India ended.

Temple number 57

 
Few thoughts:

During the course of travel through remote villages I was terribly upset at the sight of large number of unemployed youth. India is a young country with 65% of the population under 35 years of age. Unfortunately most of them are jobless; hence dejected and misled and are allured by easy money. Unemployment of youth is a greatest scourge on nation and has dangerous repercussions on the society and country at large. Government under the banner of extending subsidies is indirectly breeding laziness among the youth. Majority of youth in the rural areas are unskilled and semiskilled and except for the peak harvest season of the crops they remain unemployed and unoccupied. Though schemes have been designed to provide guaranteed employment during the slack season, prolonged execution of these schemes will have a dampening effect. Since the aim of these designated programs is providing daily wages, youth are no longer motivated to upgrade their skills. Without working skills, they are bound to depend on government forever. Wish the government considers revising the existing schemes and /or consider annulment of such programs. Instead it would be pertinent for government to focus on skilling the youth and ride on the wave of huge demographic dividend.  Skilling millions of young and energetic Indians should be the mission to march towards progress and prosperity.
 
Sunset @ Sonagiri 
 
Photographs Courtesy: Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar & Samanvit Teegela
 
Copyrights reserved.

2 comments:

Perugu Balu said...

well versed Description I can not under take this journey but enjoyed your narration as though am in your vehicle good keep it up

Ramaharitha Pusarla said...

Thank you very much for a very positive feedback.