A Journey to Sangla (Baspa) Valley: Land of Kinnauris Part-1

a. Delhi to Sarahan

Travelling across the length and breadth of India is the surest way to fall in love with the land. The awesome diversity, the prized possession of India is its most enthralling aspect. Quite characteristic of our earlier travel episodes this impromptu road trip to Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh too satiated our ingrained adventurous sinews.

Day 1

Past experiences impelled us to refrain from travelling on weekends as the serpentine queues of the vehicles stuck in the traffic dampened the spirit of exhilarating road drives. Cautiously we chose to hit the highway before 9 pm to avoid the truck traffic. Thankfully the roads were not too crowded when we set off from our house at 8:15pm and by 9 pm we were driving on the Delhi Ambala Highway with designated speed limit of 90kmph for cars. We drove pretty fast and reached Zirakpur by 1am where we halted at a decent hotel for a night rest.

Day 2

The Himalayan High Way which begins from Panchakula, just few kilometres away from Zirakpur has an extended 8-lane road. Driving on these spacious, well laid out metal roads was a pleasant experience. We drove along the Highway bypassing Pinjore Gardens, Kalka and directly reached Parawanoo, the base station for the famous Timber Trail which continues to draw lots of tourists. We began to slightly feel the thrill of the ascent slowly from Parawanoo.  Drive along the hills covered by tender blooms of trees after the spring through places like Dharmapur, Solan, Khandaghat and Shoga was very lively. Away from the deafening noises of the stalled traffic and raising aerosol pollution of cities, a drive through the hills is truly refreshing. As we neared Shimla traffic was stalled for a while. Parking our car aside on the outskirts of the Shimla city, we quickly rushed to the nearest Tourist Desk to collect more information about Kinnaur district. Upon the advice of Himachal Pradesh Tourism executive, we chalked out plan for the next three days and decided to visit Kalpa village in Kinnaur district. We acquired a road map from the office and began to drive towards Kinnaur district in Sangla Valley.

 

Kinnaur District

We actually got to know about the Sangla Valley after watching the breathtaking views of Himalayas in the Highway movie. Himachal Pradesh with its greatest mountain system offers a splendid travel experience. For people who love adventure and are unnerved by the monstrosity of the mountains ranges it is a must visit place.

Shimla

Having travelled to Shimla and Kufri previously though palpable enthusiasm was missing as we bypassed Shimla but we were enthralled by the spectre of the legendary deodars of the Silent Valley, few kilometres before Kufri. Further ahead of Kufri we began to slowly ascend the hilly terrain and passed through villages of Fagu and Theog and stopped at an isolated restaurant at Sandhu village. After a brief chat with the locals, we came to know about the famous Hatu temple near Narkanda. Since it is on our way we planned to visit the temple.

A Temple on the way

 

Narkanda is a small town and popular skiing resort in the region. It is endowed with excellent accommodation facilities setup by the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC). Located at an altitude of 2708 meters on the NH-22 (Hindustan-Tibet Road) and 65 kilometers from Shimla, it offers a splendid view of snow-capped Himalayas. The entire belt of Narkanda, Thanedhar and Kotgarh lie in the lucrative Apple Belt of the state. Satyanand Stokes introduced Apple cultivation in this region which subsequently strengthened the economy of the region. The place is quite famous for a variety of fruits like Cherries, Plums, Almonds and Apricots as well. Nature resorts of Narkanda are quite popular among tourists seeking seclusion and tranquillity. Besides it offers a unique view of the eternal snowline. 8 km from Narkanda is the majestic Hatu peak 3400 meters from the sea level and one of the highest motor able peaks in this region.

Hatu Temple

 

The road to Hatu Peak is quite narrow and allows passage of a single vehicle at a time. The steep curves and sharp bends of the road demands exceptional driving skills and agility while manoeuvring the curves. The sharp ascent right at the base of the peak was really scary and made us rethink about our decision of visiting the temple atop the peak. As we began to meander through the road we were thrilled by the dense vegetation of the tall spruce, fir, cedar and maple trees. All our moments of thrill and excitement suddenly evaporated as were closing towards the peak when we had to make way for a huge vehicle coming in the opposite direction. Meticulous driving skills of my husband averted a dangerously close mishap. Overpowered by spirit of adventure, we drove ahead and reached the peak.  The total drive along the hill was 11km.

Hatu temple carvings

 

The splendid sight of the beautiful temple Hatu temple dispelled away our anxieties. The Divine Shrine made of rock had exquisite wooden carvings of various deities. The wooden empanelment is uniquely carved into coiled dragon characteristic of pervading Tibetan influence. Such architectural engravings are quite unusual for Hindu temples. Roof has two layers, the lower one made of wood and the upper one made of the slate. Slate specifically found on hills is very shiny. The architectural form of the roof is typical Pagoda style. This temple is one of the finest specimens of slanting roofs and slightly concave like the Chinese ones.

According to the local legends, Hatu Mata is the temple of Mandodari, wife of Ravana. It is believed that Pandavas spent part of their exile on these hills and the two giant stones shaped like chullah called Bheema Chullah, is present on the top of the peak. There are few resorts on Hatu Peak aptly named as Agyaat Vaas. True to its meaning the place is secluded and serene. The peak offers a spectacular view of the Himalayan ranges and the amazingly beautiful green valley surrounding the peak.

British Lieutenant Hugdson established a trigonometric station at the Hatu peak to measure the height of great Himalayan ranges as the place provides 360 degrees panoramic view of the inner and outer Himalayas. Hanuman Tibba, Shrikhand Mahadev, Kailash, Parvati and Friendship peaks can be viewed from this place. This peak is considered to be the last watershed as water flowing down to the North eventually enters Arabian Sea via Sutlej River. The water flowing towards South empties into Bay of Bengal through Yamuna and later on to Ganges. After some photo-ops, we sat down for a while to savour the tranquillity of the place and slowly drove down to Narkanda.

Road to Hatu Peak

 

Most of our trips are unplanned and we set out with a vague idea about the destination. So as we embark on our journey, things would randomly unfold with amazing surprises/ The visit to Narkanda was one such happenstance. We didn’t have slightest clue about the existence of this rarest gem amongst these mountain ranges. But as we started enquiring people we collected the information and made it. Our next destination was Rampur, an important commercial centre of this region, 65 km from Narkanda. To reach Rampur located along the banks of the torrential Sutlej, we had to descend 1350 mts. Altogether we had a rollercoaster kind of journey from Zirakpur to Hatu and Rampur on a single day.

Hydropower Plant at Rampur

 

After a sharp descent we entered a historic town of Kumharsain which also has a training centre of Seema Sashastra Sena Bal. The place is famous for the Koteshwar Mahadev Mandir, which is brought out of a cave shaped temples every four years. The event is marked by a fair and local Naita dance. Little ahead of the town is Sainj and a left turn along the State Highway 11(SH11) will proceed to Kullu Mandi. Along the outskirts of Rampur we saw lush green fields bountifully irrigated by Sutlej River. But unlike the hills enveloped by vegetation at higher elevations, hills of Rampur are devoid of vegetation and most of them were cut to make way for building new infrastructure.

Mahishasura Mardini Temple, Rampur

 

Rampur was winter capital of the princely state of Bushahr, one of the largest hill states under British administration. From early 18^th century the town is a trading hub for Kinnauris and traders hailing from the passes of Ladakh and Tibet. The town has a rich historical legacy in its kitty. But as we wanted to make a night halt at Sarahan which is almost 50 km from the town we gave Bushahr palace visit a miss. Rampur is a very stuffy place and bustling with activity. We were soon overwhelmed by the sight of one of the hydroelectric project, Sutlej Jal Vihar Nijam Limited (SJVNL). Along the highway we had a sneak peak of the workers quarters, other offices and a temple of Mahisasur Mardhini by the side of the road. We had a quick darshan of the Goddess and steadily move along the highway. Beyond Rampur towards Jhakri, home to Asia’s largest hydropower project we encountered a patch of bad roads lying in the land slide prone region. From Jakhri we proceeded to Jeori from where a steep road ascended towards Sarahan, the summer capital of the Bushahr rulers. By the time we reached Jeori sun is already down and it has become quite dark. We cautiously drove along the steep ascent to reach Sarahan, 17 km away from Jeori and perched at an elevation of 2313 mts. Having booked room at the HPTDC accommodation, Hotel Shrikhand we checked in and tumbled into beds after travelling 280km.

 

Photographs Courtesy: Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar

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Expediting Connectivity Networks: SAARC Motor Vehicle Agreement (MVA)

On June 15^th India made an emphatic beginning for enhancing its connectivity by signing Motor Vehicle Agreement (MVA) with Bangladesh, Bhutan, and Nepal at Thimpu. The Bangladesh, Bhutan, India and Nepal (BBIN) platform officially took off with pledge of extending the connectivity to other spheres including the digital connectivity. Incidentally India intends to deepen its cooperation with nations by accelerating its connectivity.

To this end, India has signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with Iran in May 2015 towards development of the Chabahar port through construction of two berths-one for handling container traffic and other a multipurpose cargo terminal. India also plans to build road-railway network from Chabahar to Milak in Iran in order to link it with Indian build 223km Zaranj-Delram road in Afghanistan. Chabahar located in the Gulf of Oman is strategically important to India and 72km away from the Gwadar port in Pakistan. By building a road and railways India would have access to Afghanistan through sea and rail. Since Pakistan has sealed his boundaries the Indian joint venture with Iran will create a viable trade route to Afghanistan and Central Asia.

While Pakistan is free to join the BBIN platform to get the benefit of being connected in the trans-Asian rail and road network it chose to stay away to deny India land access to Afghanistan and beyond. Connectivity is key to develop intra-regional trade and for overall economic development. Interestingly leaders of the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) and Association of South East Asian Nations (ASEAN) in their summit conferences emphasised on the need for connectivity.

SAARC regions has agreed on increasing the intra-regional connectivity in “seamless manner” through rapid up gradation and construction of roads, rails, waterway, energy grids and air links to “ensure smooth and cross border flow of goods, services, people and technology”.

The staged implementation of the Motor Vehicle Agreement (MVA) will start by October 2015. The estimated cost for these transport connectivity projects is over $8 billion and this endeavour is actively supported by Asia Development Bank (ADB) by its South Asian Economic Sub-Regional Economic Cooperation (SASEC). Inefficient transportation connectivity in these countries has been a greatest obstacle in realising fullest economic and trade potential so far.

The larger version of SAARC MVA couldn’t be signed in the last SAARC summit at Nepal due to the severe reservations expressed by Pakistan. The finalisation of the BBIN MVA is a humble beginning in the direction of deepening of integration for regional peace, stability and prosperity of South Asia. Hence other SAARC nations are expected to join. While the conceptualisation of this agreement is a land mark in itself efficient implementation of its objectives is vital for its success.

Already sceptics have expressed concerns about the functioning of bureaucracy in these countries as this over-arching framework needs meticulous planning in formatting the procedures acceptable and convenient to all the parties. This exercise involves not only development of robust infrastructure but only managing border controls. Perhaps, BBIN should take crucial lessons from EU which has efficient system in place. ASEAN countries too fare badly in this aspect due to entrenched suspicions and difficulties associated with intra-regional movement of goods and people.

In the year 2000, India, Iran and Russia conceived a multi-model transportation corridor, International North South Corridor (INSTC) for promoting transportation cooperation among the member states. This connects the Indian Ocean and Persian Gulf through Caspian Sea via Iran and goes on to connect St. Petersburg and North European region through Russian federation. India must develop its INSTC linkage with Chabahar port which will provide alternative access to Afghanistan. The port of Chabahar was offered to India by Iran for development in 2003 but the agreement couldn’t be materialised. Now India intends to lease the port for 10 years.

In reply to the China’s One Belt One Road (OBOR) India has quietly but deftly moved ahead by launching its One Rail One Road (OROR). While the China’s ambitious programme which was financed by its deep pockets India has little resources and might be needing long term financial support to further expand its OROR. Propitiously neighbouring countries of Myanmar and Thailand have agreed to develop motor vehicles pact on lines of SAARC MVA to foster greater economic cooperation in ASEAN region. India has achieved another major breakthrough as it is going to sign similar pact with Myanmar and Thailand. Wary of the undeterred expansionist attitude of China the South East Asian Countries might have little opposition to join the India’s OROR.

Interestingly, India which is known for its proactive commitments and poor ground work displayed exceptional enthusiasm to transform the vision of the SAARC nations into reality under the active foreign policy strategy pursued by Prime Minister Narendra Modi. His forthcoming six country central Asian countries tour in the Mid July is aimed to enhance the connectivity of India and establish dynamic trade routes.


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Someswara Swamy Temple- Bhimavaram

Somarama or the Abode of the Lord Someswara Swamy, is a pancharama kshetra in the Gunapudi village of Bhimavaram in the West Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh. The existence of this temple can be traced to 4^th century and was believed to be constructed by the King Chalukaya Bheema.

• This oldest shrine now appears new due to proper upkeep and maintenance. A tinge of modernity becomes conspicuous due to the coloured paintings and sculptures on the wall.
• The temple has elegant architecture with an overwhelming gopuram or edifice at the entrance.
• A large lake Chandrakundam swamped with beautiful lotuses is present in front of the temple.
• Within the premises on to the left side of the entrance lie the shrines of Lord Hanuman, Lord Sriram, Lord Kumaraswamy and Navagrahas in a hall. On to the right is an open hall with a huge statue of Nandi.
• The Shivalinga of the temple called as Someswara was believed to be installed by Lord Chandra (Soma).
• The most unique feature of the Linga is that it changes it colour according to the lunar aspect. At the time of Pournami (full moon) Shiva Ling is white in colour and attains darker hues during Amavasya. The shivaling is small unlike in other Pancharamas.
• Over the main sanctum sanctorum is the shrine of Goddess Annapurna, an extremely rare feature found in any of the temples in India. This exemplifies the Lord Shiva bearing Goddess Ganga on his head.
• Another distinct feature is presence of five Nandi statues opposite to ShivaLing
  To the south lies the shrine of Goddess Adi Lakshmi and to the east there is a pushkarini or pond referred to as Somagundam. Lord Shiva of this temple is popular as Sri Someswara Janardhana Swamy and his consort is Goddess Rajarajeswari.
  Mythological Connect
  As per local legends, Somarama was called as Pagunaraseema or Pavunaraseema in Olden days. Gosthanee River flows adjacent to the village of Gunupudi.
• The sthala purana says that Gandarvas took away Moon to their land thus the Earth was deprived of the pristine moon light and its splendour on full moon nights. Disappointed deities sought the help and advice of Lord Brahma to get back the Moon from Gandharavas. Lord Brahma revealed that Moon was in Gandharava Loka and asked the deities to request Gandharvas to send back moon to Earth. But the dejected Dieities felt that Gandharavas wouldn’t heed to their request, in the meanwhile Goddess Saraswati advised the Dieites that they can give her to Gandharvas in exchange for Moon.
• The Dieities then took Goddess Saraswati to Gandharva Loka and by offering her to the King of Gandharvas brought back moon to Earth. Goddess Saraswati with her wisdom won the hearts of Gandharvas and got back to Satyaloka of Lord Brahma. Gandharvaras slowly realised the trick played by Dieities of Earth and hitched plans to bring back Moon to their loka again. Cognizant of the plans of Gandharvas, Dieties alerted Moon to worship Lord Shiva and seek his blessings.
• A popular legend narrates a fascinating tale with regard to existence of Pancharama Kshetras in Andhra Pradesh. The demon King Tarakasura performed severe penance to Lord Shiva whereby he had ShivaLing in his throat which made him invincible. Overpowered by the strength he began to commit grave atrocities. Finally to slay down the demon, Lord Shiva ordained his son Kumara Swamy. But miraculously whenever Kumara Swamy tore the demon’s body into pieces all of them would reunite again due to the power of ShivaLing present in his throat.
• Confused and embarrassed Kumara Swamy sought the help of Lord Vishnu who suggested that the ShivaLing should be first broken into pieces to kill the asura and warned that the pieces of ShivaLing would also reunite quickly. To prevent them from reuniting the pieces have to be fixed in the place where they fall by worshipping them and by building temples.
• Upon the advice of Lord Vishnu, Kumara Swamy wielded Aegneyasthra on the Shivaling, which broke into five pieces. In the meanwhile Lord Vishnu ordered Lord Surya to fix five pieces of ShivaLing in their places and offer prayers to them by building temples. Upon construction of temples, the pieces stopped moving and became popular as pancharama kshetras. All the ShivaLings in these five temples bear a scaly mark on them believed to be formed by the power of Aegneyasthra.
• Lord Someswara Swamy was first worshipped by Lord Chandra (Soma) and hence in the name of Moon God, Lord Shiva attained the name of Someswara and the place is called Somarama.
  Important festivals celebrated in the temple are Radhotsavam and Teppotsavam performed during Sivaratri and Navaratris.
  Other Attractions
  Mavullamma temple
  Draksharama
  Ksherarama
  Antarvedi
  Accomodation
  Comfortable accommodation can be availed either at Bhimavaram or Rajahmundry
  How to reach
  Andhra Pradesh State Road Transport Corporation (APSRTC) runs buses frequently from Palakollu, Rajahmundry and Vijayawada
  By Road:  Bhimavaram is 20 km from Palakollu
  70 km from Rajahmundry
                          107 km from Vijayawada
                          270 Km from Visakhapatnam
  By Rail: Temple is 2 km away from Bhimavaram railway station
  By Air: Nearest Airport is at Rajahmundry/ Vijayawada

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Modi’s visit to Central Asian Republics: A Game Changer

Prime Minister Modi‘s eight day long  six- nation tour  to Central Asian Republics (CAR) which includes participation in 7^th BRICS Summit and 15^th Shanghai Cooperation Organisation Meet (SCO) at Ufa in Russia will begin on  July 6^th. This will be first ever visit by an Indian Prime Minister to all the five CARs since their independence in 1991. Earlier Prime Minister Jawaharlal visited all these nations in 1955 by train on a day 10 long tour when these nations were part of former Soviet Union. Visit to these five CARs- Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan referred to as ‘Stans’ would boost up the 12-point ‘Connect Central Asia’ policy initiated in 2012. The policy which was high on rhetoric could hardly make any significant progress in revamping ties with CAR.

Modi’s key focus during the visit would be on enhancing strategic, economic and energy ties with these nations. All these five nations that form the crux of Eurasia are Muslim majority countries and richly endowed with natural resources like oil, natural gas besides huge reserves of untapped mineral wealth like Uranium. But these nations are individually and collectively much weaker than their neighbouring nations China and Russia. These nations which are superficially stable are inherently very fragile due to poor nation building. They lack robust political institutions and are devoid of mechanisms of periodical transfer of power and still economically dependent on Russia. Major economies with substantial hold in this region in order are Russia, China and the US.

While Russian influence over these nations have come down China has gained its strategic foot hold in these nations. The dependence on Russia has been the outcome of their seven decade long association with it. Moreover with significant Russia origin population in the region and dependence on remittances of huge number of people working in Russia it has substantial influence over the region. Further with its land locked geographical status and poor connectivity CAR’s greatly rely on Russia for transit. In spite of CARs eagerness to breakout of Russia’s influence they can barely afford it.

In 2013 President Xi Jinping on his 10 day long tour to CARs extended huge financial bourses of $33 billion in form of soft loans. With an eye on these proximate energy reserves market China is inching forward to draw these nations into its fold. China has now increased its engagement with these countries through trade, energy and military agreements besides roping them under the banner of SCO (all four ‘Stans’ other than Turkmenistan). CARs are in fact wary of this Asian economic super power for its strangling hold on Xinjiang province which was usurped nonchalantly. Moreover the recent steadfast expansionist approach and muscle flexing of China in the South China Sea reinforced CARs historical suspicions of its hegemonic attitude towards weaker nations.  

After the 9/11 incident the US strategically began establishing bases in this region but was forced to pull out from this region due to the combined pressure of CARs and Russia. Now the simmering Ukraine crisis has reinvigorated US interests in this region again. The US and especially President Obama wanted to extricate CARs from the sphere of influence of Russia and wanted to integrate them with Afghanistan and South Asia. While CAR welcomes the presence of US to check the overtures of Russia and China they are wary of its dubious intentions and its proclivity towards periodic change of power and curtailing human rights violations. The other minor players in this region besides the big three are Japan, Europe, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan and India.

Analysts believe that Modi’s upcoming visit would be a “game changer” as India has started realising the need to engage with extended neighbourhood as a part of its larger geostrategic proposition. The central theme of India’s dynamic foreign policy of Modi government has been to counter the towering influence of China and bolster India’s presence on the international platform.

Historically India had extensive connections with CAR but India never posed any threat to the territorial integrity of these countries. Hence these nations are attracted to India and moreover India’s long standing friendship with Soviet Union too has reinforced their interest in India. But India couldn’t connect with CARs meaningfully due to lack of reliable connectivity which hindered trade and people to people linkages. Even Indian private sector was least enamoured by CAR due to poor air connectivity, difficulty in obtaining Visas and unconducive market conditions. Hence relations with these nations began to decline. But Central Asia is great importance to India for its strategic position, energy resources and to counter terrorism.

In his whirlwind tour Modi’s first stop over is at Uzbekistan followed by Kazakhstan. He will then leave for Russia to attend the back-to-back summits of BRICS and SCO. From Russia he will visit Turkmenistan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. In his rather tightly packed schedule Modi would hardly spend 24 hours in each of these countries.  In Uzbekistan, Modi will interact with Indologists, students learning Hindi and other members of Indian community.  Modi will pay tributes to Indian Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Sastry, who lost his life at Tashkent. Key agreements to enhance trade and economic ties will be inked. In Kazakhstan, Prime Minister will address students of Nazabayev University and inaugurate the India-Kazakhastan Centre for Excellence in Information and Communication Technology where India’s super computer PARAM was stationed. In Turkmenistan Modi will inaugurate a statue of Mahatma Gandhi and Centre for Yoga and Traditional Medicine. Besides several agreements related to tourism, trade, space, fertilisers, defence, science and technology will be signed. In Kyrgyzstan Modi will inaugurate Tele-Medicine links aimed at boosting Medical tourism. In Tajikistan Modi will have detailed interactions with his counterpart for strengthening defence cooperation. India has its lone military base at Ayeni in Tajikistan.

At the BRICS summit India would be closely looking forward to enhance economic ties with other stake holders. With the New Development Bank of BRICS started functioning the issues like disbursal of loans for various developmental activities will be widely discussed. India and Pakistan are presently observers in SCO. During the current SCO summit process of elevation of both nations to members is expected. Officials are predicting that Modi will have a chance of meeting Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif at this summit. SCO currently has six members- China, Russia and four stans other than Turkmenistan

Another key issue that will surface during the discussions with leaders of CAR will be growing threat of ISIS.   Since all the CARs have sizeable Muslim population, leaders are particularly worried with reports indicating that their youth are increasingly drawn towards ISIS. With ISIS spreading its tentacles to Pakistan Prime Minister Modi is expected to initiate talks on counter-terror technology, training forces and counter radicalism. With the withdrawal of NATO forces from Afghanistan its stability has become an issue of grave concern to India and CAR as well. Moreover the smart political collusions of Pakistan and China with Afghanistan to keep India out began to bother India. With Pakistan posing greater encumbrance to India by curtailing connectivity to Afghanistan, India’s relations with CAR assumes greater significance.

Another major issue that will be discussed is the issue of connectivity. While the border of Tajikistan is just 20 km away from the border of the Greater Kashmir, connectivity with these countries is poor. Realising the urgent need for improving connectivity attempt is made by nations through the ambitious 5600 km long North South Transport Corridor (NSTC). It aims at moving freight from India, Iran, Azerbaijan and Russia via sea, rail and road. The main objective has been to increase trade connectivity between Mumbai, Moscow, Tehran, Baku, Bandar Abbas, Astrakhan, Bandar Anzali. Dry runs along two routes were carried in 2014. Through Chabahar port which India leased from Iran India hopes to link up to this corridor. If once NSTC gets started India can even think of catching up with China. During this visit India is going to speed up the TAPI (Turkmenistan Afghanistan Pakistan and India) a gas pipe line planned to meet India’s energy needs and whose work is going on at a slow pace.

Despite India’s historical, cultural and civilization links with CARs it grossly failed in taking advantage of these connections. India’s record of highest level of contacts and visits to these nations has been abysmally low. Prime Minister PV Narasimha Rao visited Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan in 1995. Atal Bihari Vajpayee visited Tajikistan in 2003. Man Mohan Singh visited Uzbekistan in 2006 and Kazakhstan in 2011.

With decline of Russia’s economic growth and fall of rouble there has been significant decline of remittances from Russia to CAR. Uzbekistan and Tajikistan are hard hit. With the US pulling its troops from Afghanistan it has lost interest in CAR. Hence these nations are looking for strategic alliances and economic engagement. India should seize this opportunity and make potential investments and enhance trade ties with CARs.

Modi’s meticulous foreign policy is now keenly watched by observers as the outcomes of the engagements with these nations can change the spectre of the geopolitics. Further the sceptical west is keenly interested in following the expected elevation of India’s observer status to full membership at SCO which might have implications on the Sino-Pakistan relationship. Besides, India’s friendly participation in SCO signals its intentions of work closely with China at different forums in spite of their insidious territorial disputes.

 

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Reading between the lines: Why China vetoed India’s move on Lakhvi in the UN?

It is no surprise that China has vetoed India’s resolution in UN for re-arrest of Zakiur Rahman Lakhvi, the mastermind of the 26/11 incident which claimed more than 160 lives. The victims include nationals from plethora of countries besides India. Lakhvi was released in April on bail in violation of the UN resolution (1267) of terrorist organisations and groups. India’s move for re-arrest of Lakhvi was backed by all the four permanent members except China. China blocked the Indian resolution on the pretext of failing to provide enough information. With this China has yet again blocked India’s attempts to stall Pakistan’s state sponsored terrorism across the borders. Over a period of its seven decade stint in the UN China has exercised its veto power only 10 times, the lowest for any permanent member. Its proactive stand in halting Indian proposal thus has a greater significance and forewarns of an impending strategic manoeuvre.

China the all weather friend of Pakistan has performed a customised choreographed act. But with its latest move China intends to send a message to the US whose reputation is at its ebb in Pakistan. Till now both the US and Pakistan has greatly benefitted from each other’s companionship. Though the US leadership is unwilling to relent, of late there is a growing tide of dissent among the security advisers in the US for extending uncanny financial bounties to the Pakistan. Pakistan has been a base for the US for its alleged activities in the continent of Asia, more so in restricting the headway of Russia into Afghanistan. On pretext of being relatively ill equipped to tackle the Indian Forces Pakistan has smartly milked the US to accumulate weapons and arms on a large scale. But now the US seems to be slowly losing interest in Pakistan. Hence the inimical Pakistan is eagerly latching onto China, a befitting counter to the US. Pakistan in fact wants Beijing to help them in negotiating with Afghanistan and Taliban to completely strangle out India’s alliance with Afghanistan.  Also, with Indo-US ties reaching all time high, China has become unequivocally generous towards Pakistan to contain the perceived Indian threat.

While this is not the first time that China has shielded Pakistan, the veto coming just days after Indian operation across the Myanmar borders raises serious doubts about the intentions of the China-Pakistan duo. The resolution against the UN designated terrorist was backed by 14 of the 15 members in the UN Security Council. Previously China blocked sanctions against Jaish-e- Mohammed Chief Masood Azhar in 2009. In December 2010 they prevented the UNSC from imposing sanctions on Hafeez Saeed and Jamat-ud Dawa and earlier this year they blocked Indian appeal to include Hizab-ul Mujahideen Chief Syed Salahuddin in the terrorist list. These dubious stances of China clearly reflect its desperation to maintain abiding friendship with Pakistan. China and Pakistan would continue to be unrivalled partners due to their enmity with India. Chinese disgruntlement towards India partly stems from its joint oil exploration with Vietnam in the South China Sea.

The Pakistan-China diplomatic relations were established in 1950, military assistance began in 1966 and friendship deepened as Pakistan facilitated the Nixon-Mao meeting in 1972 which helped China to resurrect from a phase of its diplomatic isolation. Subsequently economic cooperation took off in 1979 and currently China is the largest arms supplier and third biggest trading partner of Pakistan. Fostering friendly relations with China has been the most vital aspect of Pakistan foreign policy.

Pakistan was a key country during Afghan Taliban war at a time when China had severe bickering with Russia. Pakistan’s confrontation with Soviet Union won the hearts of the Dragon. Consequently, it helped Pakistan acquire nuclear capability and missile capability through North Korea. In the aftermath of Tiananmen Square protests in 1989 besides Cuba, Pakistan stood by China and now it largely supports China on the issues of Xinjiang, Taiwan and Tibet. In turn China supports Pakistan’s claims over Kashmir. Further Pakistan acts as a bridge for China to reach out to the Muslim nations. Apart from these strategic alliances both nations have an ongoing free trade agreement. The generous $46 billion Chinese investments announced by President Xi on his recent visit to Pakistan testimonies the profligate friendship. With an eye on gaining access to Arabian Sea and Indian Ocean China has offered to developed the strategic Gwadar port. Plans are underway to increase connectivity and access to Pakistani territory through the Xinjiang province of China along the PoK (Pakistan Occupied Kashmir).   With this China would not only revel in having gainful access from Persian Gulf to Arabian Sea but also would celebrate containment of India.  While China may be highly elated at its increasing geographical footprint it failed to factor in the paranoia and the impact of Pakistani bred terrorists on the brewing Islamist Movement in its Xinjiang province.

Pakistan now considered a Pariah state is looking forward to China to avert castigation among coterie of nations. Commentators in West now draw parallels to mutual allegiances between to these nations to that of Israel- United States relationship. China has been wooing Pakistan substantially with matching deals of the kind India obtained from the US. China seriously considers Pakistan as a regional counterweight to counter India. Hence China continues to block India’s attempts to enter the Nuclear Supplier’s Group and adamantly refrained from recommending India’s permanent membership to UNSC.

India and China reciprocally back each other at international fora (World Trade Organisation & Environment Councils) and have recently joined hands to raise alternative financial institutions like the BRICS New Development Bank and the AIIB (Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank) to fund their infrastructure projects. While the economic cooperation between the nations is commendable a long term partnership is not feasible due to deep seated trust deficit. Though India helped China in procuring the permanent membership in the UN Security Council in 1971 India’s help was blatantly unacknowledged.

Following the Chinese veto Indian government should wake up and stop misreading Chinese intentions despite the high-profile and electrifying reception extended to Modi in Xian Province. While $20 billion worth business deals were signed between India and China during Modi’s China visit, major breakthrough wasn’t made on boundary disputes. Also Modi and Premier Li Keqiang issued a joint statement to counter terrorism but unfortunately China fails to walk the talk. Thus the noble objective of curtailing the cross-border movement of terrorists has yet again succumbed to the Chinese intransigence.

Under the reign of President Xi, China embarked on a mission mode of undeterred aggressive expansionism. In a bid to make its global presence imminent, it initially befriended India’s neighbours with a promise of building robust infrastructure. Subsequently it partnered with Russia in vetoing UN resolution on Syria. Brazenly flouting the international law it fortified its islands in the South China Sea and intimidated all other weaker nations who have claims over islands in the South China Sea with its economic clout. While it has been instrumental in floating two multilateral banks to counter the West, it indirectly started sponsoring dictatorial regimes across Africa and in the recent instance it has exercised its veto power to block Indian resolution. In its frantic mode of extending its muscles over the globe to emerge as a fledging super power, China is out on a wild run. These efforts of China are going to be inimical in this increasingly multipolar world. With the recent instance, China has displayed its unquestionable amity with Pakistan. But the larger issue remains as how its ambitious plans of building economic corridor between these countries would progress in safe havens of terror and how Beijing would handle the simmering radical Muslim movement in its own backyard.

 

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Arasavilli Suryanarayana Swamy Temple

The Sun temple in North Coastal district of Srikakulam popularly revered as Arasavili Suryanarayana temple is one of the most highly visited temple. Arasavili is a small town just 3 kilometres away from Srikakulam. Referred earlier as Harshavilli meaning abode of joy the temple is dedicated to the Lord Surya or Sun God.

The Arasavilli Suryanarayana Swamy temple is perhaps the only Sun temple in the entire Coromandel Coast as the Konark temple in Orissa remained as an incomplete project till now.

• Inscriptions on the temple walls indicate that it was constructed in the 7^th century by the Kalinga Ruler Devendra Varma of Orissa. Further, it reveals that grants were made by Aditya Vishnu Sarma and Bhanu Sarma of Kalinga clan towards the maintenance of temple during the later periods.
• The present construction is largely the result of the renovations carried out in 18^th century. During the early 19^th century, the local family Dusi made financial contributions for the temple.
• Built in typical Orissa Style, it holds testimony to the architectural skills of the Vishwakarma Brahmins or Maharanas of Orissa the temple is highly renowned for its magnificence and beauty.
• The temple is constructed in such a way that Sun’s ray fall directly on the feet of the Lord for few minutes during the early hours of the day twice a year in the months of February and June.
• Sun’s rays would fall on the feet of the Lord through the five entrance doors. These rays are believed to cure ailments of eyes.
•  The temple is in Panchayatana style, wherein the main temple is surrounded by four subsidiary shrines. The idol of the Lord Surya is at the centre with Ganesha, Shiva, Parvati, Vishnu idols in four directions in the four corners of the quadrangle.
• The 5 ft tall idol of the Surya exquisitely carved in black granite bears lotus buds in his hand (hence referred to as Padma Paani) flanked by his consorts Usha, Padmini and Chhaaya riding on the seven horses driven by Charioteer Aruna is the object of worship. At the base of the idol are the gate keepers Pingala and Danda and high up are the two divine saints Sanaka and Sanandana holding Chatrams (umbrellas).
• A huge pillar was constructed by Jakkamasetty Venkanna in the temple premises in 1929 whose base is filled with jewels as an offering.
• It is believed that devotees visiting the temple are bestowed with good health on performing Surya Namaskaras in the premises.
• It is regarded that the ill effects of the ravi dasa or antar dasa are nullified by offering prayers to Sun God.
  Mythological Connect
  According to Padmapurana, the idol was believed to be installed by Sage Kashyapa for the welfare of mankind. The Sun God, termed as planetary God is thus considered to belong to Kashyapa gotra.
  As per the sthala purana, Balarama in Dwaparayuga brought the River Nagavali to Earth by tilling the land and consecrated the temple of Uma and Koteswara on the shores of this river.
• All the Gods, Angels and their minions arrived on the shores of the Nagavali to worship Lord Rudra Indra, the king of Lords became late. By the time he arrived it was late in the night and he tried to gatecrash his entry. Then gate keeper Nandi didn’t allow Indra to enter the temple as it was time for Lord Rudra to rest with Goddess Parvati.
• Indra was adamant in his demand and attempted to force enter the temple, infuriated by the persistence of Indra Nandi kicked him violently who was sent flying in the air in east direction.
• Indra lay unconscious with body pains. Then he prayed Lord Sun to relieve of the body pains and exhaustion. Surya Deva heeded to his prayers and touched him with his rays whereby Indra regained strength.
•  Indra then requested Lord Sun to remain in this place and bestow health to mankind. Sun God obliged. Thus Lord Indra himself consecrated the place with the idol of Lord Sun.
  It is said that Indra dug the land with his Vajrayudha whereby a pond appeared, the pond now known as Indra Pushkarini.  Even now devotees visiting the temples tonsure their heads, take a dip in the pond and proceed for darshan.
  The most important festival celebrated in the temple is Radhasaptami. Others include Makara Sankranti, Mahashivaratri, Rakhi pournami, Dussera, Kalyanotsavam, Dolostavam, Janmastami, Deepavali and Vaikunta Ekadasi.  All the Sundays in Maghamasam are considered sacred. Thousands of devotees from Andhra and neighbouring state of Orissa visit temple during Sundays.
  Various sevas performed the temple include: Astottara Satanamarchana, Sahasranama Archana, KSheeranna Bhogam, Ksheerabhishekam, Tiruveedhi seva, Swamy vari kalyana seva and Suryanamaskarams.
  Accommodation
  Accommodation can be availed in Srikakulam or at the Andhra Pradesh Tourism and Development Corporation (APTDC)’s Haritha resorts in Visakhapatnam.  
  Tour Details
  APTDC organises Non-AC coach one day tours that covers Arasavalli Sun Temple, SriKurmam, Buddhist Monastery, Kalingapatnam Beach and Srimukhalingam from Visakhapatnam.
  Departure- 6:30 am Arrival- 8pm
  Fare: Adult- Rs 800 and Child: Rs 640 (Fare includes Breakfast, Lunch, Tea/Snacks).
  How to reach
  The temple is 3km from Srikakulam.
  By Road: 3 km from Srikakulam
              68km from Vizianagaram
  110km from Visakhapatnam

Andhra Pradesh State Road Transport Corporation (APSRTC) operates buses from Srikakulam to the temple every 10 minutes and nonstop buses from Visakhapatnam to Srikakulam buses run every 15 min.
By Rail:  Nearest Railway Station is Srikakulam Road
By Air: It is 110 km from Visakhapatnam airport.

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Burgeoning Resource Crunch in Asia

21^st century is projected as Asian century accredited to engine global economic growth and development. In 19^th century European powers largely dominated the globe and the scenario remained more or less unchanged till the end of both World Wars. Later America slowly emerged eclipsing the European dominance marking the beginning of the American century. It ascended to the stature of the global super power post cold war and reigned supreme following the collapse of the Soviet Union. Its hegemonic status began to fade away following its attack on Iraq and subsequent five year economic crisis. In the mean while the Asian countries slowly began to rise and make their mark on the global platform. Thus while the European countries have reached the stage of saturation with diminishing employment opportunities, slowing of economy the ascent of Asia has become even more promisingly evident. Slowly the planet is now witnessing resurgence of multiple powers a trend that existed before 19^th century.

With Asian countries ambitiously launching massive schemes to propel their economic trajectories there is an insatiable appetite for natural resources. This has triggered intense competition between the nations within the continent. Resource constraint is now a major burden on these growing economies, propelling them to import natural resources like mineral ores, fossil fuels like coal, oil and natural gas putting pressure on international resources and triggering price volatility. The resource appetite of the growing Asian giant for the past three decades has been fuelling the demand of oil in global markets. A sudden dip in the demand for oil supplies in global market is experienced recently as the Chinese economy began to trail.

Unlike North America, Europe and Australia which are richly endowed with natural resources Asia has the lowest per capita of resource availability. Putting great pressure on the economy and scuttling the growth trajectory as well. Starved of the crucial inputs like natural resources, these developing nations are increasing dependent on external sources which on long term can lead to geopolitical tensions and environmental degradation.

Asian competition over natural resources is sharpening and aggravating disputes in the resource rich region of South and East China Sea. The entire dispute surrounding the Japanese controlled Senakaku islands of 7 sq. Km on which China makes its claims is surrounded by rich hydrocarbon reserves. The reason for the territorial disputes over Kashmir, Golan Heights, the West Bank, Tibet, Central Asia’s Ferghana valley and more recently about Arunachal Pradesh are about resources than land. The Xinjiang province which is rich in hydrocarbons along with Tibet has been forcibly engulfed by China for the same reason.

Majority of the Asian cities continue to dominate the list of most polluted cities and are reeling under acute water shortage. All the major economies of Asia are on the brink of water stress. International standards describe water stress as a situation when the availability of water is less than 1700 cubic meters per year. China has to support 19% of global population with 6.7% of the global water resources. While the situation in India is even grim as it has mere 4.3% of World water available at its behest for 17.8% of World population on its territory. With the per capita availability of 2030 cubic metres in China it is still not water scarce by 2013 while India and South Korea are water scarce.

The problem of water scarcity is compounded in Asia because the rate of utilisation of fresh water exceeds its renewable stocks. Further unscientific practices like digging deeper wells, polluting & eroding rivers and transferring surface water across the basins Asia is using up its future resources for present use. This inadvertent use has resulted in depletion of already scarce water resources. In part, state policies like free electricity, subsidized diesel and irrigation subsidies have paved way for exhaustion of water resources. Consequently Asia has the lowest efficiency of water use and productivity. Already 50 % of the population experience water stress and by the end of this decade it is projected to cover two-thirds of world population.

Asian economies are encountering major food challenges too as bulk of the water resources are now to be shared among agriculture, expanding industries and cities. As a result the productivity of crops is lagging behind the demand and failing to keep in line with the rising levels of prosperity. New technologies should be employed to increase the productivity of the crops. A small step towards it can be a shift in focus of cultivation from high water intensive cropping to micro irrigation systems. Management of the limited supplies will shape not only the economic trajectories of these countries but also quells security issues. Asia is dire need of attaining energy dependence. India imports nearly 90% of its energy supplies. Until India becomes self-reliant in terms of energy, it can’t aspire to relieve economic poverty of its masses. Water and energy constraints in long term can hamper the growth and progress of the nation. Nations must usher into energy technology revolution and seriously induct strategies to clean up polluted or brackish water, chemically treat and recycle waste water and try to make ocean water potable.

The resource crunch has triggered inter-state rivalries over the direction of gas and oil pipelines. While China has been successful in obtaining hydrocarbons through pipelines from Russia, Kazakhstan and Myanmar other major Asian economies like India, South Korea and Japan lack access to such direct supply through pipelines. They are highly dependent on the oil imports through sea from the unstable Persian Gulf region.

Fight over resources has become more common in Asia. Especially construction of dams and hydro electric projects by one country to increase its water supply and storage capacities often severely affects the lower riparian states. Asian countries must seriously evolve policies to tame the issues of resource sharing else this might stoke tensions or conflicts. 53 of 57 transnational river basins in Asia have no water-sharing arrangement or other cooperative mechanisms. This has been the reason for strained political relations between countries in most Asian regions.

Even history is replete of stories where nations waged battles to have unbridled authority over the resource rich regions. During the World War II, Japan attempted a sneak peak attack on Pearl Harbor in desperation over the US oil, steel and scrap-metal embargoes. Even the recent attack on Iraq by the US is propelled by its greed for resources.

While strategic competition for resources is inevitable for the saga of development, Asian leaders should carve out norms and establish institutions that can moderate associated risks of resource management/sharing. Besides Asia, Africa is another continent where regional cooperation and integration is thread bare. Historical animosities, political and cultural diversities in part have hampered institution-building in these continents. To overcome the growing adversities of resource crunch inter-state relationships should be strengthened and nations should work harmoniously in coordination. 

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