Ancient Marvel at Moola Mookambika Temple, Kodachadri

A vast majority of Indians must have known about the famous rust-free Iron Pillar found in the Qutub Minar complex, New Delhi. The corrosion resistance capacity of the pillar notwithstanding the severe pollution and severe temperature fluctuations of Delhi continues to awe Indians. The pillar stands as a testimony to India’s profound knowledge of metallurgy.

As per the inscription on the pillar, this was originally erected at the present-day Udayagiri near Sanchi and it is traced to the Chandra Gupta II period (375-414 CE). Referred to as the Garuda pillar or Vishnu pillar, this was brought to Delhi by Iltutmish in 1223. The rust-resistant properties of this rare metal pillar made of 99.72% pure wrought are due to the presence of phosphorus and low sulphur in iron. This marvel is believed to have been built by the pillar casting method. Phosphorus with the oxygen in the air forms of a thin protective coating on the surface and shields it from corroding. This unique pillar which is 25 ft tall of which 3.7 ft is below the ground continues to attract several tourists.

Nadir Shah during his conquest wanted to carry it back to Afghanistan and tried to uproot it and used even cannons. The cannon shell marks on the pillar validate the historical records.

Akin to the iron pillar in the Qutub complex, there are several pillars across the length and breadth of the country. The list includes- the Iron Pillars in Dhar near Mandu, Konark, Mt. Abu, Tanginath and Kodachadri near Kollur in the Shivamogga district of Karnataka.

The Dhar iron pillar is traced to the Raja Bhoja period installed as a victory pillar and is twice as tall as the pillar at Delhi. Emperor Jahangir makes a mention of seeing this pillar in his diary. As per records, the pillar broke when the Mughals tried to shift it. The three broken parts of the pillar are at the Lat Masjid in Dhar. The three parts weighing 7 tonnes altogether are completely rust-resistant. A similar corrosion-resistant 12ft 9 inches iron pillar of the 15^th century is found at the Achaleshwara temple in Mt Abu. The 239 iron beams belonging to the 12^th century, lined up in the complex of the Konark Temple are characteristically rust-free.

The great Trishul at Tanginath which is 17ft tall and 32 cm thick is believed to be the oldest of iron pillars in India. Records indicate that Mahabharata period arms were supplied from this region.

Another shining example that vouches for ancient India’s metallurgical prowess is the rust-resistant iron pillar at Kodachadri. Located in dense forests and nestled in hills, Kodachadri receives moderate to heavy rainfall for over 6 to 8 months of the year. The place is just 30 km from the Arabian Sea coast. Metals exposed to humid air tend to corrode much faster. Defying all these odds, a 2400-year-old rust-resistant iron pillar 32 feet tall and 3-4 inches wide continues to amaze the devotees of Devi Mookambika.

Iron Pillar

 

Description

As per local records, this less-known iron pillar which is twice in antiquity, half the thickness and taller than the Delhi iron pillar was made by the Vanavasis of the region. This iron pillar was gifted by them to Sri Adi Shankaracharya when he visited the hills in 600 BCE and performed penance at the cave of Chitramoola. Sri Shankara has consecrated Devi Mookambika and Sri Chakra at Kodachadri. The iron pillar is installed in front of the Moola Mookambika temple.

 

Sri Moola Mookambika Temple, Kodachadri

Armed with these rudimentary details of the iron pillar, we set out for Kollur in the Shivamogga district of Karnataka. From there we travelled to Kodachadri to see the pillar. To our amazement, the pillar stands tall proudly showcasing the metallurgical mastery of ancient India. True to the local folklore, we reached a small shrine of Sri Adi Shankaracharya as we trekked 2km uphill. Indeed, as the local version, the supposed iron pillar is a Trishul with the three prongs buried underground.

Sri Adi Shankaracharya Statue

Sri Adi Shankaracharya Shrine

The surface of the iron pillar unlike its Delhi counterpart is rugged and corrugated. Insitu metallography and scanning tunnelling microscope analysis found key differences with the Delhi pillar. The Kodachadri pillar has less phosphorus and less carbon. The pillar was found to be produced using the solid-state reduction process and it was heavily forged.

This specific case of the Kodachadri pillar underscores the fact that the vanavasis have been practicing iron smelting. The copper artifacts of the highest purity recovered from Mehrgarh excavations dated to 8000 BCE speak volumes about India’s exceptional skills in smelting, extraction, and purification of metals. Numerous copper and bronze statues from across India validate ancient India’s metallurgical skills.

The Indian-made “Damascus Swords” from Wootz Steel which contained 1.2% carbon as opposed to less than 1% carbon in regular steel has been in great demand, especially in the Arab region.  Aichinson in his book “A History of Metal Vol 1” mentions that copper metallurgy was discovered around 4300 BC in Elburz Mountain, Caspian Sea, Iran. Historians believe that Copper metallurgy travelled to India from Iran in 2000 BC. However, the discovery of copper artifacts in Mehargarh disproves this conclusion. India never received its due for its craftsmanship and metallurgical skills. The non-corrosive and rust-resistant iron pillars stand as an unparalleled exemplar to our Loha Vidya.

 

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A Journey to Sangla (Baspa) Valley: Land of Kinnauris Part -2

b. Sarahan to Recong Peo and Kalpa

 

Day 3

We got up at 5:45am to have a glimpse of the majestic hills at Sunrise. The pristine skies offered an amazing view of the Shrikhand range of mountains which includes twin peaks of Gishu Pishu and Srikhand Mahadev. Nothing can beat the picturesque beauty of Sarahan with snow capped mountains towering the turquoise green vegetation dappled with colourful blossoms. Sarahan has a glorious history to its name. The temple of the Bhimakali Temple of Sarahan identified as Sonitpur (referred in Puranas) is one of 51 Shakti Peethams or Places of strength where Goddess reincarnated. Bhimakali is the presiding deity of the Bushahr rulers.

 View from Hotel

 

Bhimakali temple is a historic twin towered structure built in Indo-Tibetan style and bear resemblances to Chinese pagodas. The temple is built in Indo-Tibetan style and has alternating layers of wood and stone. The thick walls and low roofs offers needed insulation in the high mountainous terrain during winters. The temple, a mark of pride with its intricate designs of the wood work reflects the local Kinnauri architecture. Historians believe that the stones of Sarahan are steeped in history for its references in puranas and legendary tales. Goddess was considered to be manifestation of Dakhsa Yagna incident when the ear of Sati fell in this place and became the place of worship as Pitha Sthan. The region was believed to be ruled by Banasura, ardent devotee of Lord Vishnu who was the great grandson of Prahlad.

 Twin Towers of Bhimakali temple

 

The treasured identical twin towers constitute the prized embodiments of the temple. The old tower damaged by the earth quake in 1905 is now locked and used as repository the new structure is its resurrected version constructed with exquisite artistic woodwork. The new temple has three-storeyed deep foundations and an underground tunnel that leads to a village Ranwin. Pundits usually enter and leave the temple through this tunnel. The 200 year old idol of Bhimakali is worshipped in this immaculately clean two-storeyed building.  It houses two idols of the Goddess-the virgin form of the Goddess and another one enshrined in the form of Parvati, the consort of Lord Siva. These towers are on a raised stone platform and constitute the inner chambers of the temple premises. Cell phones, cameras and other leather material are strictly prohibited inside these chambers. The temple complex is encased in court chambers. The chambers in outer corridor serve as temple office and rest houses for devotees. The shrines of Lord Narasingh (Narasimha) and Lord Shiva that lie in outer chamber are relatively old and are built in classical shikara style.

Lord Shiva Shrine

 

The fabulous temple has a gruesome history attached to it as human sacrifices were carried out here till the early 19^th century in the Lankra Vir Temple within the complex. After which the subtler form of lamb sacrifice was a regular practice till 2013 during the Dusshera celebrations. Following the court order even that ritual is now abandoned. The descendants of the Royal family serve as Pandits of the temple. The Chief Minister of Himachal Pradesh Virabhadra Singh, a member of the Royal family is the elected representative from Sarahan.

View of the mountain peaks

 

The serene environs and the exquisite location of the temple make the visit more auspicious and enchanting. Another interesting place in the town is Tragopan pheasantry, where local breeds of birds are scientifically bred. The place remained closed during our visit as it was breeding season. Before waving bye to the place, we relaxed on the swings in the beautiful lawns of the Hotel that offers a panoramic view of the peaks and the valley. As we began to set out for Kalpa in Kinnaur district 100km away, people cautioned us about the bad roads on the way.

Sarahan located in Shimla district is gateway to Kinnaur. Himachal Pradesh is bountifully blessed with nature’s splendour. The Himalayan ranges that run through the state divide it into two regions. The monsoon winds which bring rains to most parts of the country fail to cross the towering mountain peaks. Hence the region to the south of the ranges is rain fed by the monsoons. But the plateau to the North of the Trans-Himalayan regions, past the ranges falls remains dry (falls in rain shadow region) is characteristically treeless with seamless fast flowing rivers and deep valleys. Kinnaur district is South East of the ranges and its unparalleled scenic beauty is enhanced by the near vertical mountain peaks that constantly reminds us of the invincible power of nature. Quite akin to this fact people, (Kinnauris) respect and worship nature in every form. We hit the national highway NH-22 at Jeori and proceeded to towards Kinnaur district.

Road to Kinnaur

 

Legend says that Kinnaur with its mesmerising scenic beauty fell from heaven as a gift from Gods. The district is criss-crossed by rivers Sutlej originating from Tibet and Spiti River. While the lower river basins are floored by orchards the hilly slopes are enveloped by thick woods. The region once part of the largest Bushahr princely state holds greater Himalayas and Zanskar mountain ranges. This part of the state is largely referred to in Mahabharata as it was believed that Pandavas spent several years of their exile in these tracts. Ancient texts consider the people of Kinnaur were the Kinners- halfway between Gods and men. Much of this region was largely cut off from the rest of India until the construction of Hindustan-Tibet road (NH-22) in 1850 by Lord Dalhousie. During the recent years with the construction of Hydel Power projects across the rivers and with spread of scientific agricultural and horticultural practices people began to catch with the rest of the World. With its proximity to Tibet, people have strong cultural, religious with them. It is manifested in their language, customs, traditions and Hinduism in this region is embellished with Buddhist practices. The Tibetan influence is clearly reflected in construction of temples and other huge heritage structures. Entry of foreigners into this region has been restricted for security reasons. They are required to obtain an inner line permit if they wish to travel beyond Jangi in Kinnaur.

Hindustan-Tibet road (NH-22)

Our wild fantasy to visit this place stemmed from its picturesque scenic images showcased in the movie Highway. Kinnaur district also called as Baspa valley or Sangla valley has many beautiful nuggets. Exciting details of this valley details has spurred us into a road trip. The rigours and dangers associated with driving these inhospitable terrains are worth the risk  to rejoice the unrivalled scenic beauty of this mountainous terrain.

 Rock Tunnel on NH-22

 

At the border of Kinnaur district we were stopped at security check post and were asked to furnish a valid ID card and itinerary of our trip. It was a bright sunny day and we were amazed by the sheer grandeur of the Kinnauri landscape. We marvelled at the ingenuity of the engineers who contrived the plans of constructing the Hindustan- Tibet highway through the gigantic rocky terrain and held tribute to the unsung heroes- the labourers who toiled for years to make our journey so pleasant and comfortable. All along the labyrinthine trail we travelled by the side of river Sutlej. The near vertical rocky mountain cliffs devoid of vegetation revealed its colossal existence. Gushing waters of Sutlej added ruggedness to the terrain.

Sutlej @ Karcham

 

We passed through the villages of Nigulsari, Bhabhanagar, Nathpa and Wangtu. From Nathpa the ongoing construction for the Karcham Wangtu power plant has severely damaged the highway. Roads are completely chipped off its outer surface and the layer of pebbles beneath began impeding our drive. Till Tapri the roads are were badly damaged and the Hindustan Tibet road ahead of it which lies in landslide prone region is badly damaged due to falling boulders. Hence this road was closed. The traffic was being diverted to a steep narrow hilly road which went all the way up to Urni. The drive along this road was extremely scary as the un-shouldered road touches an elevation of 2875msl.  While driving along a single lane road at such an elevation is hair-rising, meandering through heavy vehicle traffic has made the ride doubly challenging and gruesome. The road slowly descended to meet the riverside bridge across the Chooling Nallah. The ordeal of cracked roads continued to haunt us till Powari. This roundabout treacherous route was 20 km longer than the old road which was closed due to landslides. Finally we reached Karcham cantonment area the place where River Baspa joins River Sutlej. NH 22 along this entire stretch till Powari is very dusty and the construction activity of the Karcham-Wangtu Power plant has worsened the situation.

Karcham-Wangtu Power plant

 

Little ahead of Karcham is a stony bridge and a left turn from this place leads to Sangla Valley. We drove towards Recong Peo crossing the Shongtong Bridge. As we began to ascend slowly we had an amazing view of the colossal range of snow-capped mountains.

Shongtong Bridge

 

Recong Peo, the capital of Kinnaur district is perched at an elevation of 2290 msl. Peo is a serene town and relatively sparsely populated. Peo is earlier referred to as Kinnara in legends. Between 9^th and 12^th century the district was under the rule of Guge Kingdom of Tibet. After a very tiresome drive, we stopped at Peo for an evening stroll. We spotted a Tourism centre and walked in to enquire about places of interest nearby. From Peo we had a panoramic view of Jorkanden and Kinner Kailash mountains.

Recong Peo

 

Peo is known for the Kothi Durga Temple also called Chandika temple, 3 km from Peo on the way to Kalpa. A steep motor able road led to the temple entrance. Built amidst of Orchards and lapped in mountains, it has a very unique architecture and the roofs are embossed with intricate wooden sculptures bearing animal motifs. Entry of outsiders is strictly prohibited to the inner chambers of the shrine. The golden idol of the goddess is posited on a grand wooden palanquin.

Kothi Durga Temple

 

Few metres from this temple is Bhairava Mandir, where the marble sculpted image of Lord Shiva open to sky was installed. This temple has a unique tradition wherein the Pandit alone would enter the premises to clean and perform all the rituals. Entry of outsiders or even local people is prohibited.

Bhairava Mandir

Peo was overlooked by a huge statue of Lord Buddha of the Brelengi Gompa Monastery of Brelengi 5 km from Peo. The road leading to monastery is under construction, so we walked up to the monastery. Since there are no sign boards marking directions we got lost and made our entry into Kalachakra Monastery from backside. The monastery was built in 1992 upon the instructions of Dalai-Lama to perform the Kalachakra ceremony. It has an impressive modern edifice and next to it is a 10 meter statue of Lord Buddha which is visible from distant surroundings. Enclosed by dense orchards, the place is ideally suited for mediation.

Kalachakra Monastery

 

We then slowly moved along the winding steep road going through apple orchards and Pine Woods towards Kalpa 7 km from Peo at an altitude of 2960mts. It is intriguing that Kinner Kailash which is bestowed greater religious significance is clearly visible from Kalpa alone. The place earlier called as Chini offers a spectacular view of the majestic Kinner Kailash range. It is believed to be the point where the mountains halt the progression of the monsoon winds. We booked our rooms at HPTDC Kinnaur Kailash, which offers a peerless view of the Kailash range. As dusk settled over the town a feeling of eternal peace and contentment dawned on us. We quietly sat in the lawns of the hotel watching these ranges and began munching hot pakodas.

Photographs courtesy: Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar & Samanvit Teegela
 

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A Journey to Sangla (Baspa) Valley: Land of Kinnauris Part-1

a. Delhi to Sarahan

Travelling across the length and breadth of India is the surest way to fall in love with the land. The awesome diversity, the prized possession of India is its most enthralling aspect. Quite characteristic of our earlier travel episodes this impromptu road trip to Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh too satiated our ingrained adventurous sinews.

Day 1

Past experiences impelled us to refrain from travelling on weekends as the serpentine queues of the vehicles stuck in the traffic dampened the spirit of exhilarating road drives. Cautiously we chose to hit the highway before 9 pm to avoid the truck traffic. Thankfully the roads were not too crowded when we set off from our house at 8:15pm and by 9 pm we were driving on the Delhi Ambala Highway with designated speed limit of 90kmph for cars. We drove pretty fast and reached Zirakpur by 1am where we halted at a decent hotel for a night rest.

Day 2

The Himalayan High Way which begins from Panchakula, just few kilometres away from Zirakpur has an extended 8-lane road. Driving on these spacious, well laid out metal roads was a pleasant experience. We drove along the Highway bypassing Pinjore Gardens, Kalka and directly reached Parawanoo, the base station for the famous Timber Trail which continues to draw lots of tourists. We began to slightly feel the thrill of the ascent slowly from Parawanoo.  Drive along the hills covered by tender blooms of trees after the spring through places like Dharmapur, Solan, Khandaghat and Shoga was very lively. Away from the deafening noises of the stalled traffic and raising aerosol pollution of cities, a drive through the hills is truly refreshing. As we neared Shimla traffic was stalled for a while. Parking our car aside on the outskirts of the Shimla city, we quickly rushed to the nearest Tourist Desk to collect more information about Kinnaur district. Upon the advice of Himachal Pradesh Tourism executive, we chalked out plan for the next three days and decided to visit Kalpa village in Kinnaur district. We acquired a road map from the office and began to drive towards Kinnaur district in Sangla Valley.

 

Kinnaur District

We actually got to know about the Sangla Valley after watching the breathtaking views of Himalayas in the Highway movie. Himachal Pradesh with its greatest mountain system offers a splendid travel experience. For people who love adventure and are unnerved by the monstrosity of the mountains ranges it is a must visit place.

Shimla

Having travelled to Shimla and Kufri previously though palpable enthusiasm was missing as we bypassed Shimla but we were enthralled by the spectre of the legendary deodars of the Silent Valley, few kilometres before Kufri. Further ahead of Kufri we began to slowly ascend the hilly terrain and passed through villages of Fagu and Theog and stopped at an isolated restaurant at Sandhu village. After a brief chat with the locals, we came to know about the famous Hatu temple near Narkanda. Since it is on our way we planned to visit the temple.

A Temple on the way

 

Narkanda is a small town and popular skiing resort in the region. It is endowed with excellent accommodation facilities setup by the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC). Located at an altitude of 2708 meters on the NH-22 (Hindustan-Tibet Road) and 65 kilometers from Shimla, it offers a splendid view of snow-capped Himalayas. The entire belt of Narkanda, Thanedhar and Kotgarh lie in the lucrative Apple Belt of the state. Satyanand Stokes introduced Apple cultivation in this region which subsequently strengthened the economy of the region. The place is quite famous for a variety of fruits like Cherries, Plums, Almonds and Apricots as well. Nature resorts of Narkanda are quite popular among tourists seeking seclusion and tranquillity. Besides it offers a unique view of the eternal snowline. 8 km from Narkanda is the majestic Hatu peak 3400 meters from the sea level and one of the highest motor able peaks in this region.

Hatu Temple

 

The road to Hatu Peak is quite narrow and allows passage of a single vehicle at a time. The steep curves and sharp bends of the road demands exceptional driving skills and agility while manoeuvring the curves. The sharp ascent right at the base of the peak was really scary and made us rethink about our decision of visiting the temple atop the peak. As we began to meander through the road we were thrilled by the dense vegetation of the tall spruce, fir, cedar and maple trees. All our moments of thrill and excitement suddenly evaporated as were closing towards the peak when we had to make way for a huge vehicle coming in the opposite direction. Meticulous driving skills of my husband averted a dangerously close mishap. Overpowered by spirit of adventure, we drove ahead and reached the peak.  The total drive along the hill was 11km.

Hatu temple carvings

 

The splendid sight of the beautiful temple Hatu temple dispelled away our anxieties. The Divine Shrine made of rock had exquisite wooden carvings of various deities. The wooden empanelment is uniquely carved into coiled dragon characteristic of pervading Tibetan influence. Such architectural engravings are quite unusual for Hindu temples. Roof has two layers, the lower one made of wood and the upper one made of the slate. Slate specifically found on hills is very shiny. The architectural form of the roof is typical Pagoda style. This temple is one of the finest specimens of slanting roofs and slightly concave like the Chinese ones.

According to the local legends, Hatu Mata is the temple of Mandodari, wife of Ravana. It is believed that Pandavas spent part of their exile on these hills and the two giant stones shaped like chullah called Bheema Chullah, is present on the top of the peak. There are few resorts on Hatu Peak aptly named as Agyaat Vaas. True to its meaning the place is secluded and serene. The peak offers a spectacular view of the Himalayan ranges and the amazingly beautiful green valley surrounding the peak.

British Lieutenant Hugdson established a trigonometric station at the Hatu peak to measure the height of great Himalayan ranges as the place provides 360 degrees panoramic view of the inner and outer Himalayas. Hanuman Tibba, Shrikhand Mahadev, Kailash, Parvati and Friendship peaks can be viewed from this place. This peak is considered to be the last watershed as water flowing down to the North eventually enters Arabian Sea via Sutlej River. The water flowing towards South empties into Bay of Bengal through Yamuna and later on to Ganges. After some photo-ops, we sat down for a while to savour the tranquillity of the place and slowly drove down to Narkanda.

Road to Hatu Peak

 

Most of our trips are unplanned and we set out with a vague idea about the destination. So as we embark on our journey, things would randomly unfold with amazing surprises/ The visit to Narkanda was one such happenstance. We didn’t have slightest clue about the existence of this rarest gem amongst these mountain ranges. But as we started enquiring people we collected the information and made it. Our next destination was Rampur, an important commercial centre of this region, 65 km from Narkanda. To reach Rampur located along the banks of the torrential Sutlej, we had to descend 1350 mts. Altogether we had a rollercoaster kind of journey from Zirakpur to Hatu and Rampur on a single day.

Hydropower Plant at Rampur

 

After a sharp descent we entered a historic town of Kumharsain which also has a training centre of Seema Sashastra Sena Bal. The place is famous for the Koteshwar Mahadev Mandir, which is brought out of a cave shaped temples every four years. The event is marked by a fair and local Naita dance. Little ahead of the town is Sainj and a left turn along the State Highway 11(SH11) will proceed to Kullu Mandi. Along the outskirts of Rampur we saw lush green fields bountifully irrigated by Sutlej River. But unlike the hills enveloped by vegetation at higher elevations, hills of Rampur are devoid of vegetation and most of them were cut to make way for building new infrastructure.

Mahishasura Mardini Temple, Rampur

 

Rampur was winter capital of the princely state of Bushahr, one of the largest hill states under British administration. From early 18^th century the town is a trading hub for Kinnauris and traders hailing from the passes of Ladakh and Tibet. The town has a rich historical legacy in its kitty. But as we wanted to make a night halt at Sarahan which is almost 50 km from the town we gave Bushahr palace visit a miss. Rampur is a very stuffy place and bustling with activity. We were soon overwhelmed by the sight of one of the hydroelectric project, Sutlej Jal Vihar Nijam Limited (SJVNL). Along the highway we had a sneak peak of the workers quarters, other offices and a temple of Mahisasur Mardhini by the side of the road. We had a quick darshan of the Goddess and steadily move along the highway. Beyond Rampur towards Jhakri, home to Asia’s largest hydropower project we encountered a patch of bad roads lying in the land slide prone region. From Jakhri we proceeded to Jeori from where a steep road ascended towards Sarahan, the summer capital of the Bushahr rulers. By the time we reached Jeori sun is already down and it has become quite dark. We cautiously drove along the steep ascent to reach Sarahan, 17 km away from Jeori and perched at an elevation of 2313 mts. Having booked room at the HPTDC accommodation, Hotel Shrikhand we checked in and tumbled into beds after travelling 280km.

 

Photographs Courtesy: Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar

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Road trip to Pinjore Gardens, Kufri and Shimla: Part 2

As we descended to Shimla, we were greeted by the huge towering architectural structures painted in a spectrum of colours. Shimla was the summer capital of the British and after independence, it served as the capital of Punjab province till Chandigarh was constructed. Unable to bear the intense heat of the Indo-Gangetic plains, the British made Shimla the summer capital. To meet the needs of elaborate administrative machinery, necessary infrastructure was developed too. At the very first instance of Shimla, tourists will be captivated by the vivid architectural splendour of the buildings constructed in Victorian style. Shimla derives its name from the Goddess Shyamala Devi, incarnation of Kali. Built on hilly terrain, the city has very narrow, windy roads and managing vehicular congestions is a huge task. Hence outside vehicles are denied entry beyond the Cart road. Lifts operate from Cart Road to Mall Road to facilitate easy movement of men and material up the hill.

Shimla

The place has a majestic aura and a visit to Shimla is not complete without slice of history. We parked our car in the parking lot of Cart Road and  took a flight of steps to reach Mall Road. Roads are at different elevations and could be reached by a steep climb. With every climb the view of the place becomes much better and breathtakingly beautiful. After checking into a hotel on Mall Road, the hub of all activity, we relaxed for awhile and got ready for a wintery evening stroll. Mall road is bedecked with several old mansions which are converted into extravagant hotels that offer a spectacular view of the hills.

Mall Road

Till now, overwhelmed by the excitement of exploring hills, we ignored the harsh winters of hilly region. By late evening, there was sudden dip in temperatures but it didn’t deter the enthusiasm of the tourists to stay indoors. The Mall road beaming with flashy lights from the business establishments is reverberating with activity. We shopped for quality woollens, the trade mark of hills before shutters began to roll down on shops in Mall road and Lower Bazaar (On Mall) by 8pm. It is Valentine Days eve and we could spot young couples frolicking in fun and flashing their best attires Besides being a shopping centre Mall roads houses several administrative buildings too. We had delicious dinner at the famous Gupta restaurant and retired to our rooms. We slept quite early cuddling under three layers of blankets to get ready for our return trip next day.

 

Christ Chruch

Sunday morning we woke up early to explore the city of Shimla. We reached Ridge road which is above Mall road. The roads were very clean for Indian standards. Plastic bags are banned. Hills have a very delicate ecosystem and hence emphasis must be laid on conservation of nature. Ridge Road has the 19^th century majestic Christ Church and provides a beautiful view of the mountains. Across the Christ Chruch is a municipal library and the spacious road had statues of Mahatma Gandhi, Lalalajpat Rai and Indira Gandhi too. As tourists began to slowly trickle out, horses were readied for a ride on this road. Ridge has several fun activities and it is a nice place to hang around. It has a skating rink and several food outlets.

Ridge road

Without losing much time, we began to walk towards Jakhoo hill, the highest point of Shimla and 2 km away from the city. We began to walk along the steep lanes but soon realised that you have to be a terrific walker to reach the upper inclines. After walking few hundred meters we gave up the idea of reaching the temple on foot and hired a taxi. The local drivers are extremely dextrous and can meander through any narrow curve with enviable expertise and skill. The stretch of the road leading to Jhakoo is marvellous, offering a beautiful view of the dense deodar forests. The tall ever green trees are visual delight for every nature lover. Jakhoo is 8100ft from the mean sea level and provides a spectacular view of the ice capped mountains.

State library

Legend says that Lord Hanuman rested on these temples while he was searching for the Sanjeevani herb to revive Lord Lakshmana. Home to countless playful monkeys visitors must be very cautious about their belongings especially spectacles. We reached the Old Hanuman temple by climbing a flight of stairs and along the stair case we could read Hanumana Chalisa painted along the ceiling panels. Located in a tranquil environ, it is perhaps the best place for meditation. We were simply awed by the langar adjoining the temple. It served hot rice, dhal, curry and a sweet dish free of cost to every devotee. We were impressed by the discipline and commitment of the volunteers and temple organisation for their generous gesture. The temple is abode of peace and the picturesque view of the distant snow covered mountains offers immense contentment and felicity.

Jhakoo Temple Premises

The 108-ft huge statue of Lord Hanuman on the hill top is the single largest statue to stand at such an altitude and surpasses the 98ft ‘Christ the redeemer’ statue installed at an altitude of 2300 ft in Rio di Janeiro. As we descended the stairs of Jhakoo there is a temple of Lord Karthikeya. It housed idols of Lord Krishna, Radha and a Sivaling. Visit to the Jakhoo was the most splendid and fulfilling experience for us in our entire trip. After the taxi dropped us in a road above Ridge we went for a Heritage Walk. Though we couldn’t take a guided walk, we on our own explored the inner lanes of Shimla along the old dilapidated Victorian constructions, most of them now turned into government offices and hotels. Walking down the lanes we had a fantastic view of valley and the vastly spread out city and caught up with history of Shimla. Being Sunday museums were closed hence we walked down to Mall road and soon packed bags for our return journey. With a promise of visiting again we waved bye to the Queen of the Shivaliks. Autos, rickshaws don’t operate in Shimla. Tourists have to depend on taxis that run along the Cart Road. The freshness and close encounters with nature and the explicit beauty of the hills have rejuvenated our spirits. Thus we headed back to Delhi mentally vibrant to face the stress and rigors of daily life.

108-ft statue of Lord Hanuman

On the way back to Delhi, we stopped at vegetable market in Solan and shopped fresh vegetables and fruits. Winters being slack tourist season, most vehicles were off the road and hence we could hit the Himalayan Expressway much faster. Once again we couldn’t resist ourselves from appreciating the huge highway which cut short the distance and made our drive comfortable. The route we followed was Shimla-Solan (bypassed Parawanoo and Panchakula)-Ambala-Karnal-Panipat-Sonipat-New Delhi.

Heritage Walk

 

Photographs Courtesy: Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar & Samanvit Teegela

 

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Road trip to Pinjore Gardens, Kufri and Shimla: Part 1

Of late Delhi has acclaimed a dubious distinction of the most polluted and crowded city in India. The hustle and bustle of the metros prompts residents to seek succour from the din and clamour by escaping to some calm environs. Being travel freaks we spontaneously embarked on a journey to Shimla 370 km from Delhi on Friday night. Hailing from the coastal area of Andhra Pradesh abode of lush green vegetation, nature allures us. The majestic disposition, serenity and the grandeur of hills seemed to be the best place for an ideal get-away from the concrete jungle. Our exhilarated spirits were dampened briefly by the huge traffic of the weekend and we had to meander through scores of vehicles to hit the Chandigarh (NH1) highway. It took two and half hours from South Delhi to hit the NH-1 highway. While driving on NH1 we couldn’t resist from appreciating the commendable work done by the Vajpayee government which focussed on the infrastructure. Though there were number of tolls along the highway it was worth the money as the speed limit was almost 90 km and the journey was comfortable.

Most of the travel advisors often recommend travelling to Shimla through Chandigarh, but having visited Chandigarh already; we bypassed Chandigarh and took New Delhi- Sonepat-Panipat-Karnal-Ambala-Zirakpur-Panchakula-Kalka-Parwanoo-Khandhaghat-Shimla route. Along the highway we travelled for about 140km and stopped over briefly at a brightly lit dhaba near Karnal for a late dinner. On the highway near Ambala we checked into Hotel Amrapali for a night stay. By 8am Saturday morning, we were all set for the final phase of our journey. The hotel keeper suggested that we should definitely visit Pinjore Gardens, in Panchakula on the way. The drive from Ambala to Zirakpur on wintery morning through the fog was a delightful experience. Driving past the lush green fields brimming with yellow mustard blossoms on either side of road was a visual treat. From Zirakpur the NH-22 highway opens up into a 14-lane road leading to Himalayan Expressway before passing through the cantonment area and the industrial area. The opulence of the buildings, malls and highways of Zirakpur bespeaks the richness of the land. This highway besides connecting Ambala to the congested towns of Pinjore and Kalka effectively caters to mobility of traffic between Haryana, Punjab and Uttarakhand. Along the highway, we stopped at Pinjore Gardens renamed as Yadavindra Gardens in the Panchakula district of Haryana.
 

Pinjore Gardens

 

Pinjore Gardens, located at the foot hills of the lower Shivalik ranges, were constructed in 17^th century by Patiala Dynasty rulers in Mughal architecture. Entrance of the garden had an elegantly painted elevated doom. The vast expanse of the garden spread across 100 acres is adorned with fountains in the centre. The garden descends into seven tiers and each tier has a Mahal with grand pavilions. All the Mahals (Rang Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Jal Mahal, Hawa Mahal) were refurbished into restaurants and lounges. Unlike other gardens which are left to public apathy, these gardens are well maintained, meticulously clean with manicured lawns, colourful orchards and aromatic flowering plants. We walked into a regal building for quick breakfast. We savoured hot paranthas in the serene and calm lounge which had a mesmerising view of tall growing Bamboo trees and mango groves.  According to Indian Mythology, the Pandava brothers rested here during their exile enthralled by the beauty of the place. Pinjore Gardens also has a nursery, a small zoo, an amusement park and Bhima Devi Temple.

Next we stopped at the Kali Mata temple at Kalka on the Kalka-Shimla highway. The place derives its name from the Goddess Kalka. Kalka is gateway to Shimla and acclaimed great honour for its illustrious toy train operated on Kalka-Shimla narrow gauge railway line. Inaugurated in 1903 it is now included in the UNESCO World Heritage list. It covers a distance of 98 km in 5hrs and ascends an altitude of 4,735 ft.  Toy train travel offers a bird’s-eye view of the Shivalik hills as it meanders through 103 tunnels and crosses 864 bridges. It is described as the most authentic mountain railways in the world by the UNESCO.

Nestled in the hills, Kalka is a small town untouched by the developments of urban belts. The famous Kali temple is buzzing with activity and thronged by several devotees. We managed to get into the temple before its closure by 11am. The sanctum sanctorum had a small idol of the goddess in marble and the premises were vibrant. Outer corridors of temple had a huge queue of children waiting for a free meal served by the temple authorities.  Legends say that the temple was constructed by Pandavas during their “Agyat Vas”. After darshan we proceeded to Shimla via Parawanoo, an industrial town and has “timber trail” which operates a ropeway cable that ascends to an altitude of 5000ft. It is one of the most popular tourist attractions enroute Shimla.
 

On the way to Solan

 

As we moved up the hill on the bright sunny wintery morning, sun’s rays started stoking us gently dispelling the weariness of the congested weather of the crowded plains. The cold gentle breeze from the woods relaxed us. The hills wore a denuded look as most trees shed leaves in the autumn.  Even the green luscious apple orchards that bear dense vegetation in spring now turned into desolate and dried remnants. The thick dense bushes and wild grasses appeared pale and dull. Trees change their hues according to seasons, being winter, lower hills looked pale and devoid of vegetation. But at higher elevation the evergreen pines, deodars looked ever green, fresh and vibrant. At some hairpin bends we could see houses built at different elevation clearly as the tall trees which hindered the view are now bare. We enjoyed the real splendour, beauty and the ingenious architecture of the hills.

 

Kufri

 

In Solan, the little Shimla, a popular town with agriculture research station we purchased jams and preservatives prepared by the hilly woman from the local fruits. From Solan we directly drove to Kufri 21 km from Shimla via Dhalli bypass. To reach Kufri from Shimla we had to pass through Victory tunnel to Chotta Shimla, and through Sanjauli. Local guide briefed about the history of the 1 mt long Victory Tunnel saying that it was constructed by the imprisoned political prisoners and freedom fighters during the British regime. Before entering kufri, the winter sports capital of India, we briefly stopped at Green Valley. The place offers an awesome view of the thick pine and oak trees spread across the valley and ideally suited for clicking photographs. At the road side stall we had freshly prepared, piping hot Maggi noodles, the delicacy of these hills. With the characteristic fog of the higher elevations disappearing in the afternoon Sun, we had a spectacular view of the valley covered with dense vegetation.

Green Valley

 

Located at an elevation of 2,740 meters, the tiny charming village of Kufri is the highest point in the surrounding region and receives maximum amount of snow. It is very calm and pleasant and offers panoramic view of the snow covered hills. As we reached the place, we could find heaps of snow cleared off from the road to make way for the traffic. We were delighted to find snow covered trees, ridges and the surroundings for the first time in India. But bad patches on the road turned snow muddy and there were large pools of water all over the place. Hence we headed to the amusement park to relish our desire of play with snow. Amusement park with its adventurous sports activities in snow is the most sought-after place in Kufri. It is an excellent place for young and old. After our brief merriment with snow, we drove through the narrow patches of the roads to reach higher terrain. There we found people taking horse rides and rides on Yak along the overwhelmingly narrow hilly ridges to enjoy the panoramic view of the snow-clad mountains. Since it was very cloudy, the view of mountains was hazy. So we dropped the idea of horse ride and briefly enjoyed the scenic beauty of the place. We wanted to visit Chini bungalow but the road was closed due to snow so we proceeded to Shimla.

 

Amusement park

 

Photographs Courtesy Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar & Samanvit Teegela

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Trip to Gwalior, Orccha and Sonagiri : Day 2

Orccha

On day two we started for Orccha 125 km from Gwalior. It is 15km from Jhansi by road. I love road trip for I can intimately connect to new lands. It was a bright sunny day and almost all the fields along the stretch were parched with no trace of standing crops. Bundelkhand, as the region is referred to, is considered relatively dry since it receives modest amount of rainfall. We travelled on the Agra-Mumbai highway to reach Orccha. Half way through we passed Datia, a vibrant town famous for its forts, temples and other monuments. We briefly stopped along the highway near Datia as we spotted a distantly located fort on the top of a hill. Though we couldn’t actually visit the fort, we were informed that the fort was built in 16^th century by Bundela Chief Raj Bir Singh Deo and the place was frequented by British Viceroys who loved its architecture and grandeur.
 

Datia Fort

 

Orccha is a small town established by Rudra Pratap, a Bundela Rajput Chieftain in 16^th century and lies on River Betwa. Located on a river bank it served as an ideal capital. It is a small town with numerous shrines, temples, monuments strewn around the place. The town is known for its meticulous architectural style. We first visited Ram Raja Mandir popular among the locals and tourists where Lord Rama is worshipped. It was originally the palace of  Bundela King Madhukar Shah. His wife Queen Ganesh Kunwari was a staunch devotee of Lord Rama. She through her dedication brought the idol of Rama from Ayodhya by foot. She wanted to install the idol in a temple and hence gave prior order before her travel to construct a temple for installing the idol. But by the time she returned with idol the temple was not ready. So she placed the idol in her palace. Once the temple was ready, the idol wouldn’t shift from the palace. Since then the palace turned into a religious shrine. Hence the architecture of this temple is akin to a palatial residential complex.  Ram Raja temple is the only temple in India where Lord Rama is offered an armed salutation and worshipped in a palace as a Raja.

Ram Raja Mandir

 To the right side of Ram Raja temple is Chatturbhuj temple, the shrine which was built as per the orders of Rani Ganesh Kunwari to install Lord Rama. Since the construction couldn’t be completed in time, the idol of Lord Rama was worshipped in the palace itself while this temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Chatturbhuj temple is a marvellous piece of architecture, very spacious with a huge mediation hall and hidden stair cases within to reach high elevation. The original idol is missing but makeshift idols have been installed in the mandap currently. The beautifully carved conical shikaras enhance the magnificence of the structure. To reach the temple we had to climb a steep flight of stairs. The temple offers a beautiful view of the Orccha Fort and is directly opposite to Raja Mahal.

Chatturbhuj temple

Orccha Fort complex has three parts- Raja Mahal, Jehangir Mahal, Rai Parveen Mahal. Just as we entered the fort complex on to the right was Raja Mahal with raised balconies and luxurious royal quarters with plain exteriors. This palace construction was started by Raja Rudra Pratap in 1531 and was completed in the reign of Bharati Chandra. The palace had a square plan and divided into two wings with five storeys on three sides and four storeys on one side.  The interiors had exquisite murals with bold, colourful paintings and mirror inlay on ceilings and walls. Most of these paintings are based on the mythological themes of Ramayana and Mahabharata. The inner corridors lead to Sheesh mahal. The walkways are laurelled by domed pavilions giving it a majestic appearance.  We next moved onto the Jahangir Mahal.

 

Raja Mahal

Colourful paintings on walls of Raja Mahal

Jahangir Mahal was built by Vir Singh Deo who was Emperor’s close friend to commemorate the visit of Emperor Jahangir to Orccha. His mother Jodha was a Rajput princess so the palace in his reception was built to display Bundela  Rajput architectural style. The palace is square in plan with five storeys and eight pavilions. The overhanging eaves on the corners of the first storey were held by series of elephant brackets at regular intervals on all sides of the palace. The interiors were liberally embellished with intricate carvings, paintings and decorations. The palace is adorned with graceful Chhatris and the top storey offers a panoramic view of the town and its monuments. The fort complex is safely enclosed behind high walls and is located in lush green environs amply irrigated by waters of the Betwa River. Entire fort complex is located on an island of the river. Behind the Jahangir Mahal is Unt Khana (shelter for Camels) a simple structure and a view from its roof gives an encompassing landscape of the historical town. Behind these Mahals are numerous ruins once shelters of military officers, ministers etc.

Jahangir Mahal

Unt Khana

On to the left side of the fort complex lies a three storied structure, Rai Parveen Mahal  built by Raja Indramani who was smitten by her charms of Rai Parveen, an accomplished dancer, poetess and singer. She was paramour of Indramani. Enthused by stories of her beauty and charisma Emperor Akbar summoned her to his court. Locals say that Rai Parveen impressed the Emperor with her purity of love for King Indramani and so she was sent back to Orccha. The mahal is now surrounded by thick vegetation and hence we dropped our plans of visiting it. Scorching sun played a damp squib by weakening our enthusiasm. Our Orccha trip was in the first of October and still the obstinately high temperatures refused to sink. We had a brief halt at the Betwa Retreat, a M.P Tourism Resort for lunch and then headed towards the acclaimed Cenotaphs or Chhatris lying along the Betwa river front.

 

Shahi Darwaza of Jahangir Mahal

These are group of fifteen Chhatris built in commemoration of Bundela kings and members of their clan. The complex housing the Chhatris opens into a well maintained garden with Chhatris built opposite to each other with a Shivling in the centre. The symmetrical view of cenotaphs within in the complex was breathtaking. Cenotaphs were built on elevated a square platform. Sanctum sanctorum is also square shaped and in the centre. The upper portion has been made angular with arches. The peak is patterned in Nagara style of temple architecture. To have a better view of the place we climbed the stairs within the Chhatris. But due caution must be exercised as the monuments shelter bats and insects.  Vultures, the endangered species in India are omniscient in Orccha. Right next to these Chhatris are two monuments on the river bank which are almost in ruins and one of them is a dilapidated Shiva temple.

 

Cenotaphs or Chhatris

We next visited the Lakshmi Narayana Temple on the outskirts of Orccha. It was built in 17^th century by Vir Singh Deo and the temple was dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi. Its construction is an engineering marvel with unique blend of temple and fort architecture. As we stepped inside, it opened up into a triangular corridor leading to the sanctum sanctorum which is on an elevated square platform. The idol of the main deity has been removed but the interiors had vibrant murals with exquisite wall paintings each depicting Dasavataras and stories of Ramayana. Luckily most of the paintings are well preserved retaining their original colour and vivid quality. Coverings of walls and ceilings had a variety of religious and secular subjects. As we circumambulated the sanctum sanctorum, we observed that the inner chambers are built in octagonal shape. This temple has intriguing design and must visit during the trip. Few attractions, which we missed out and must be accommodated in the travel plan, are the light and sound show of the Orccha Fort and availing the provision of home stay in Orccha. Home stay enables a person to stay with a resident family and enjoy local hospitality.

 

Lakshmi Narayana Temple

These consummately beautiful architectural marvels of Central India are undoubtedly the most precious jewels with poignant history. In Orccha some of the monuments are well maintained and perhaps deserve to be included in the UNESCO list of World heritage centres alongside Khajuraho. The medieval town of Orccha is frozen in time with its palaces and temples vibrating in the original grandeur and splendour. It is a silent town devoid of hustle and bustle of crowded cities and an excellent place to fathom the glory of medieval India. With deep reverence towards the rulers who patronised the art and endeavoured to build mammoth structures we returned Gwalior via Sonagiri.

Orccha

 

Sonagiri

 

Sonagiri Hill

Sonagiri is a Digmabara Jain Pilgrimage centre 60 Km from Gwalior and located on the Dabra-Datia road. Since the direct route to Sonagiri was closed for constructing a bridge across Railway crossing we travelled through narrow lanes of villages. Sonagiri is an ancient hill and a sacred place for Jains. Before ascending the hill we visited Kaanch Ka Mandir, down the hill dedicated to Saint Prasvnath. The walls and ceilings of this temple is bedecked with small irregularly cut mirrors. According to legend Kings Nang, Anang and their five and half crore followers obtained nirvana by performing penance on this hill. The walk up the hill was so relaxing and least tiresome as the path was well laid out in tiles and the steps are broad, spread out with small incline. It was an easy climb and none can refrain from appreciating the commendable efforts of the trust in renovating old temples strewn all around the hill.  108 white temples are spread across the hill and the most important one is temple number 57 which was dedicated to 8^th Jain Tirthankara Chatranatha. The temple was immaculate and had statues of 77 digambara saints in pristine white marble. Photography was strictly prohibited; hence framed the beauty and grandeur of inner chamber in mind’s eye.  The main attraction of Sonagiri is the 11 ft tall Chandra Prabhu image with an inscription stating that it was placed in Samvat 335. Most tourists visit this place to obtain solace and tranquillity. Located on a hill amidst greenery, chirping birds and dancing peacocks these temples offer perfect ambience for meditation. We watched sunset on the hill and highly savoured those precious moments and headed towards Gwalior. Thus our momentous journey to the central part of India ended.

Temple number 57

 

Few thoughts:

During the course of travel through remote villages I was terribly upset at the sight of large number of unemployed youth. India is a young country with 65% of the population under 35 years of age. Unfortunately most of them are jobless; hence dejected and misled and are allured by easy money. Unemployment of youth is a greatest scourge on nation and has dangerous repercussions on the society and country at large. Government under the banner of extending subsidies is indirectly breeding laziness among the youth. Majority of youth in the rural areas are unskilled and semiskilled and except for the peak harvest season of the crops they remain unemployed and unoccupied. Though schemes have been designed to provide guaranteed employment during the slack season, prolonged execution of these schemes will have a dampening effect. Since the aim of these designated programs is providing daily wages, youth are no longer motivated to upgrade their skills. Without working skills, they are bound to depend on government forever. Wish the government considers revising the existing schemes and /or consider annulment of such programs. Instead it would be pertinent for government to focus on skilling the youth and ride on the wave of huge demographic dividend.  Skilling millions of young and energetic Indians should be the mission to march towards progress and prosperity.

 

Sunset @ Sonagiri 

 

Photographs Courtesy: Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar & Samanvit Teegela

 

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