Road Trip to Leh-Ladakh Part-II

Enjoying the fresh breeze from the towering snow-peaked ranges, we drove towards Jispa Valley, at elevation of 10,500 ft along the Bagha river 22km from Keylong. While it began to drizzle, we passed through herds of goat and sheep guarded by mountain dogs attended by shepherds whose day begins quite early. Jispa Valley is immensely popular among bikers and tourists for the make-shift tent accommodations erected by river side. This is most favoured place for night halt as it is the last place with a decent camp site or accommodation till Sarchu. This thinly habited town has a helipad, post office, school and a small tribal museum. We reached Darcha, 6km from Jispa Valley where we got our permit checked at the village entrance. After crossing a bridge that connected the place to the next hill, we located beautiful Deepak Lake. Close to the lake there are few dabhas with arrangements for night stay.

Towards Jispa Valley

Jispa Valley

Darcha

Patseo

Though the roads are okay, the top layer is chipped away at places due to landslides and rains. From Darcha, the road begins to slowly ascend towards Patseo which has an army transit camp and Zingzingbar. While no one knows how the place such a fancy name, but as we moved towards the place, I shuddered as we had to cross the nasty pagalnallah, which in fact is a huge stream that flows over the road. Most of the vehicles get stuck in this nallah. Driving through this notorious deeply pitted road is a real test for driver’s common sense and dexterity at the wheel. This treacherous stretch of just less than 50 mts saps off driver’s energy. As we were nearing the stream, everything seemed ok with a truck leading us. But suddenly, the truck stopped and soon we realised that a car got stuck. People gathered, pushed, shoved the car for good 30 min to lift it from the broken crevices of the road. Thanks to the combined physical efforts and inputs of people, the car was retrieved without much damage. When it was our turn to cross the nallah, expect for the person who is driving, all of us got out the car. Without applying clutch, my husband drove the car in first gear with relatively high pedal on the accelerator. I heaved big sigh of relief when as he drove past the so-called, traveller’s nightmare skilfully.

Pagalnallah@ Zingzingbar

Zingzing bar, is a small settlement of road builders camped at an altitude of 14,000 ft, 18km from Baralachala. Every year due to heavy snow and landslides Leh-Manali gets badly damaged and these builders tend to these repairs. Exhausted mentally and physically after crossing the nallah, we halted at one the highest peace-joints of the World which has provision for night stay as well. Perched at a high altitude as we sat down for a warm cup of tea, a blanket of cold breeze suddenly enveloped us stripping us away of our listlessness, mental and physical fatigue. Within minutes inexplicable peace descended on us. Till the Kullu Valley and during our journey through Lahaul valley, the landscape was beautifully etched with patches of greenery. Ideally different hues of vegetation add a surreal touch of beauty to the place. Along the Manali-Leh highway, beyond Darcha, there are no trace of vegetation since it falls under the rain shadow region. Due to absence of rainfall, harsh climatic conditions and high elevation there wasn’t any trace of greenery around. But these barren overwhelming mountain ridges spread across the huge expanse of the region were truly mystical.

Settlements at Zingzingbar

After crossing Zingzingbar, the climb to Baralachala La, 55km away is absolutely breath taking. Anyone who hasn’t ever touched a camera would long for it to capture the scenic beauty of the place which is indescribable. The mountains enroute the pass is covered with snow. We made made few stops to just feel the snow and enjoy the chilling breezes. The roads are quite decent for such high elevation and as we ascended we passed next to scores of army trucks. Meandering through the roads at height of over 15,000ft is an awesome feeling. Just three kilometres ahead of the pass, on to the right we crossed Suraj Taal, the third highest lake in India. While it might look deceptively too small, it is source of Bhaga river. The road here is very narrow which becomes slushy and intermittently patched towards the pass, Baralacha La, at height of 16,000 ft. It is the highest mountain pass in the Zanskar range connecting the Lahual district and Ladakh district and dividing the Bhaga and Yunam river.

Towards Baralacha La

Suraj Taal

For all practical purposes, travel down the highest pass should have been easy. But the bad roads have really the fun off the downhill drive. The 34km drive from Baralacha La to Sarachu is back breaking due to the terrible road condition. One needs extraordinary patience to drive through Killing Sarai, a rather weird name. Massive road construction work is going on this entire stretch and numerous tents are erected next to water streams that served as accommodation for workers. The road condition is no better in the adjacent Bharatpur. Broken roads really made us restless and prompted us to talk to a family resting in a car parked by roadside. They assured that barring few patches, the rest of the journey is going to be a cakewalk. Drawing some enthusiasm for their encouraging assurances, we drove towards Sarchu. A place with all attributes of a typical cold desert landscape. Sarchu also known as Sir Bhum Chun is at an elevation of 14,070ft though less punitive than Baralacha La has winds blowing at relatively high speeds. By 10:30 am, when we reached the place, winds hardly had any humidity, but the harsh sunrays began to hit us. To recover from the discomfort of knocks and jerks earlier, we parked the car by the side of the road and began to relax dropping down car shades. 

Baralacha La

Bharatpur

At Sarchu for the first time we began to experience the fatigue and a pang of severe headache. To beat this mountain sickness, we tried to remain hydrated and drank ample amounts of water at regular intervals. Sarchu, is completely devoid of any vegetation and has a rare rustic beauty which is simply enthralling. As far as we could see, the place was totally desolate and deserted. Except for the camping tents and a distant army camp, the place opened to bare mountains. Separating the huge tracks of barren lands and the overlooking mountains is a small glacier melt, Tsarap River, which is barely flowing. On entering the Zanskar Range, it becomes the much-revered Indus or Sindhu River. Sarchu has unique and captivating rock formations. The typical temple mount kind of rock cut structures embossed at the foot of mountains added a special aura to the place. Overpowered by High Altitude Sickness, we rested in our car at Sarchu for almost one and hour. 

Sarchu

Sarchu, is border between Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir. At the army check post, we got our permit checked. Crossing the border check post is a huge ordeal, since the road is literally gutted down and badly damaged. 

More rock formations

Sarchu checkpost

Photos courtesy @ Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar

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