Road Trip to Leh-Ladakh Part-1

Traveling has been a passion for us. A true, real and modest way of exploring the World. The World is a book and those don’t travel read only one page. Besides, the journey to different places make us modest, receptive and broad-minded. Traveling constantly reminds us how infinitesimally small we are in this complex, diverse and amazingly beautiful world. Especially any travel associated with exploration of nature humbles in the most unexpected way.

The crowning glory of India, Himalayas, have been the real pull factor for our numerous road trips to the northern states- Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand. Most of them impromptu road drives. Being travel enthusiasts, we always enjoyed a kind of uncertainty associated with unplanned trips. To explore pristine beauty and unique landscapes of the outer Himalayan ranges, we intended to drive through the Ladakh Valley. To familiarise ourselves about the travails of the most talked about adventurous drive to Leh through Rohtang Pass, we began to watch videos of several bikers and motorists. For long, we were constrained by the idea that one can drive through these erratic hilly terrains and rough road patches in vehicles that had good road clearance. Bogged down by this constraint, we postponed our plans several times. But never gave up the idea of exploring the enchanting mountainous region beyond the Rohtang Pass. Last year, we travelled to Keylong in the Lahual Valley, 126 km from Rohtang Pass. After seeking inputs from people who drove till Leh and beyond, we were convinced that we can travel in small cars. Most of them assured that people drive till Leh in smaller cars like Alto. These conversations gave us enough confidence to pursue the cherished idea of driving to Leh. Just like all other trips, this year, though we made up our minds to visit Leh this summer, we didn’t make meticulous plans as we were unsure of obtaining the mandatory travel permit to travel to Rohtang Pass.

To Manali via Swarghat

Our impromptu trip with vague plans of driving till Leh, remained in limbo till we procured travel permit. In the meanwhile, we drove from Delhi to Chandigarh. After getting the permit, issued by the Tourism Development Council Manali by around 3pm we started from Chandigarh, we travelled to Manali via Swarghat. We reached outskirts of Manali close to midnight. With no hopes of finding of any decent overnight accommodation in Manali, we tried knocking the doors of what seemed to be big travellers’ bungalow. But as we entered inside it turned out to ashram. Upon great persuasion and request, they allowed us to rest for the night. We got ready by 3:45am in the morning and left for Rohtang pass, 51km from Manali. Having experienced the traffic jam enroute Rohtang pass last year, to easily surpass huge uphill traffic, we were in the queue by 5am. 

Enroute Rohtang Pass

Since 2016, Himachal Pradesh government started issuing permits online to limit the traffic after the National Green Tribunal warned the government of dangerous consequences of increasing vehicular pollution. Since then travel permits are issued to first 800 petrol vehicles and 400 Diesel vehicles. Cognizant of this restriction, we reached early. Thankfully, we could breeze past the traffic very quickly and got our permit checked at Marhi check post.

Towards Rohtang Pass

Towards Rohtang Pass

Rohtang Pass

Rohtang Pass, located at 13,050ft located on the Pir Panjal ranges connects the Lahaul and Spiti valley to Kullu Valley. But as we began to ascend, all the towering snow-capped mountains are getting enveloped by thick clouds and it soon began to drizzle. It continued to drizzle till we crossed Rohtang Pass. Road leading to Lahual-Spiti valley from Rohtang Pass is heavily pitted, treacherous with huge cess pools of continuously flowing streams. As we smoothly descended the pass, we saw, vehicles lined up along the edge of the hill. A private bus, while taking a crooked turn, slipped into muddy patch and got stuck. Huge, crane was deployed to pull out the bus. The entire operation took over an hour after which downhill traffic was first allowed to carefully tread past that accident-prone area. Soon we reached, the downhill base camp of Rohtang Pass, Khoksar, where our permit thoroughly checked to enter the Lahaul Valley. We drove along the Chenab river, which flows to the north of Rohtang Pass. The roads from Khoksar towards Keylong are pretty good, plush with several camps organising trekking to Pir Panjal ranges and other glaciers. The ride through small hamlets cultivating Wheat with splinkler irrigation is a beautiful site to watch. We passed Sissu, an extremely beautiful enchanting village located amidst thick vegetation. Before, Keylong, all the vehicles would invariably stop at Tandi village, which is the last petrol bunk in Himachal Pradesh along the Manali-Leh highway. The next petrol pump is 365km ahead at Kharu in Jammu and Kashmir 56 km before Leh. 

Crane deployed to pull out the bus 

Tandi village is place of confluence (sangam) of two rivers Chandra (flowing from South East) and Bhaga (from North East), the collective waters called as Chandrabhaga river flows north west which becomes Chenab near Kishtwar town in Jammu and Kashmir. Keylong, is 7km from the sangam is administrative capital of Lahaul and Spiti district. Keylong, is the most famous resting place for the adventure bikers and tourists traveling to Leh. Abutted by snow-capped mountain peaks on one side and brown rusty barren lands on the other, Keylong 126km from Rohtang pass is a small laid-back town, situated on banks of River Chandra. It serene atmosphere and beautiful landscape is an ideal place for relaxation. It has a tribal museum with an impressive collection of artefacts, musical instruments, paintings, weapons, traditional attire, contemporary photos of Lahaul and Spiti valley. It is a cultural capital of Buddhist traditions of the valley with three Buddhist monasteries within few kilometres distance-Kardang Monastery, Shashur and Tayul Monastery. Kardang is largest monastery in Lahual of Drukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. After a short walk to the local market and museum, we were tired. All the three monasteries located on steep slopes which can be accessed through some of the deadliest roads, we couldn’t visit them. We rested at Keylong for the night and go ready for the much-awaited journey to Leh. 

Sissu

People acquainted with the Manali-Leh highway advised us to start towards early in the morning to avoid traffic jams and landslides, most common along this route. They cautioned us of the overflowing streams of water percolating from the mountain tops that flood the high way. Especially, they warned us about a pagal nallah near the Zingzing bar, whose water levels would increase with the day since bright sunshine would melt the snow. Moreover, Leh is 358km from Keylong and to reach our destination by night, we were on the road by 6am. Having gathered some useful bits of information about the road conditions from some motorists, we were gripped by enthusiasm and a vague sense of apprehension.

Last Petrol pump on Leh-Manali route @Tandi

Confluence of Chandra and Bagha Rivers

Keylong

Photos courtesy: Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar

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