Imran Khan: Pakistani Establishment’s new Yes Man

Living up to the warped tag line of free and fair elections, the poll process in Pakistan ended on July 25^th. Coming as a grim reminder to the yet to be elected Prime Minister, a powerful bomb blast ripped the polling booth area in Quetta killing 31 people. Hours later, IS claimed responsibility for the attack positioning itself as perpetrator of terrorism in the veritable terror manufacturing den, Pakistan. This is not an isolated incident. In the run up to elections, lethal bomb attacks at election rallies in Mastung, Peshawar and Bannu claimed hundreds of innocent lives. Aside, burgeoning terror threats, Pakistan economy is now in tatters. Mounting debt servicing, growing trade deficit and dwindling forex reserves forced a third devaluation of Pakistan rupee in seven months. In June it has been placed under FATF (Financial Action Task Force) grey list for failing to restrain the terror financing. Pakistan has promised to implement a 26-point list in 15 months to avoid being placed under black list. But as of now, Pakistan did little to dismantle the terror financing conduits. To exacerbate current challenges, jihadist groups are now deeply entrenched in the civil society.  Amidst these trying situations, the Pakistani establishment which include military, intelligence and a section of judiciary and bureaucracy, in supreme command over country has propped up candidature of Imran Khan for Premiership.

Predictably so, Imran Khan has emerged as the winner in the elections marred by allegations of wide spread rigging. Characterised by unprecedented delay, results were announced after two days. Rather surprisingly, despite establishment’s support, Khan fell short of the magical number of 137 to form the government. Meanwhile, all political parties alleged massive rigging and rejected the results of the polls. They demanded transparent re-elections and threatened country wide protests. As per the latest reports, PTI (Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf) having won 116 of 269 seats is in talks with smaller parties to form government. PLM(N) and PPP the two major parties has outrightly rejected the prospects of joining PTI to form a coalition government. Setting the stage ready for the swearing of the “Taliban Khan” as new prime minister of Pakistan, army would invariably engineer defections to accomplish the task of installing Khan at the highest seat of civil administration. Punjab is a crucial province vital for governance and consolidation of civil administration. Hence PTI is also exploring all ways to form federal government in PLM (N) strong hold Punjab.

While Pakistan military is pompously celebrating consecutive second transition of power, free and fair elections, US and Europe expressed concerns over pre-electoral curbs on freedom of expression and questioned transparency of electoral process. With military in firm control over civil administration 2018 elections have been more brutal, opaque and massively rigged. Establishment which is determined to consolidate its control over the country, has confined Sharifs who tenaciously fought Army’s attempts to marginalise to jail. Irked by Nawaz Sharif’s attempts to assert control over administration, military successfully nipped chances of his re-elections orchestrating judicial coup last year. Now, months before election, military slapped corruption charges against Asif Zardari and his sister and imposed restrictions on PPP (Pakistan’s Peoples Party) to hold election rallies. PPP which is already trailing in popularity is now confined to its traditional stronghold of Sindh province. Having crushed, the dynasty politicians in Pakistan, in a major fillip to its agenda of streamlining terror outfits, establishment allowed over 250 militants to contest the elections.  Over the past 30 years, Army has been directly or indirectly in control of the government. It is no different this time. In late 1970’s army which was looking for an urban politician found one in Nawaz Sharif and groomed him to become Prime Minister. With Sharif trying to assert authority of civilian government, army is now supporting another struggling, flamboyant politician and an Oxford graduate. Unfortunately, for Khan the wait has been over two decades to ascend the throne of Prime Minister unlike Sharif. The similarities don’t end there. Both Sharif and Khan are western-educated and are ardent cricket lovers. While Sharif had an unsuccessful stint as cricketer, Khan won the World Cup for Pakistan and became immensely popular.

Unfortunately, despite being a graduate from Oxford University which advocates strongly Khan now stands in support of blasphemy and sizzles from the platform supported by religious fundamentalists. While the West may get carried away by the suave and flamboyant image as being liberal in his political views, he is just anything but liberal. He is a Taliban apologist and funnelled public finances to madrassas that teach radical Islamism in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province under his governance. He now befriends the murderously radicalised Barelvi Muslims who expounds anti-Ahmadiyya bigotry.

In the journey from cricket pitch to prime minister position, Khan has reinvented and morphed himself numerous times. His ambiguous dispositions, lack of experience in governance and manipulability can do much harm to turbulent Pakistan reeling under the triple challenges of growing threat of terrorism, falling economy and growing nuclear arsenal. So far, he enchanted the electorate sporting a Mr.Clean image and anti-corruption crusader. But his party is funded by crony-capitalists. Extolling transparency and clean politics, he welcomed “electables” into his party with open arms. Now these dozens of defectors would extract their pound of flesh inflicting a hard blow to the election cry of Khan- transparency and accountability, the. Khan is just mere tool, army has picked up to bury obstinate Sharif.

After the fall of Pervez Musharaf’s reign in 2008, the popular parties, PML (N) and PPP agreed to resist all attempts of the military to undermine the civilian administration.  This ensured a peaceful power transition in 2013 and raised hopes of restitution of democracy. Overpowered by political ambitions, Khan stoked protests across Pakistan raking up allegations of rigging in 2013 election declared as one of the cleanest elections in history of Pakistan. He fomented civilian unrest and chaos and unruly mobs took held Parliament under siege. This civilian emergency invited undue military intervention. In the ensuing political bargain, Sharif was reduced to a nominal head and military regained control over national security and foreign affairs portfolios. Khan’s political ambitions inadvertently opened floodgates for military meddlesomeness. Indeed, such has been the duplicity of English speaking, brash, autocratic captain that he turned into a subservient “army stooge”. But how much ever Imran shout his guts out, “Imran kisi ka putla nahi ban sakta”, he can’t dare cross the redlines of the army, else he will be shown the door just like his predecessors.

While the Pakistani youth who grew up his heroic tales on the cricket field might well consider him as an intimidating and pouncing lion. Victory in the 22 yards pitch managing cricket squad of 20 is nothing compared to the task of leading the nation of 200 million. In fact, Khan in his 22 year long political struggle may have learned it the hard way to take the group along instead of issuing commands. In the process of inching attaining his personal goals, he lost even residual political credibility.

Though Khan has promised a “Naya” Pakistan his incomplete articulation of foreign policy and lack of vision for reviving sinking economy hardly instils any confidence in his Premiership. His muted response to army’s blatant censorship of the media and clamping down on the critiques, journalists and resolute disapproval to comment on rigged elections further raises doubts about his commitment towards an open-democratic society.

Khan’s victory speech besides allaying fears of Pakistan’s fragile domestic stability and economic doldrums has become cause of intense concern.  He said, “I want to share the kind of Pakistan I envision -the type of the state that was established in Medina, where widows and poor are taken care of. My inspiration comes from the last prophet who set up an ideal welfare state in Medina. I want Pakistan to become like that”. These opening remarks set alarm bells ringing in India and confounded its worst fears. Khan’s vision lent credence to the seminal work of Venkat Dhulipala, “Creating a new Medina: State power, Islam and the Quest for Pakistan in Late Colonial North India” which unequivocally establishes that Pakistan is created to be a Muslim utopia and protector of Muslims across the World.  Creation of the Pakistan borne out the deep seated will of Ulemas and fundamentalists to have an identity, who argued that first Pakistan was set up by Prophet when he emigrated from Mecca to Medina. Pakistan which is carved out from British India is second such Islamic state in the history. Idea of Pakistan which has crystallised out of anxiety, spring boarded from the Islamic historical imagination, vocabulary and rhetoric.  Pakistan apologists in India and liberal elite of the country refuse to buy this argument. But clearly the foundations of Pakistan are rooted in the idea of establishing an Islamic caliphate. India will be deluding itself if its believes that Pakistan is a democratic country even.

In his speech, Khan said, “If Hindustan’s leadership is ready, we are ready to improve ties with India. If you take one step towards us, we will take two steps towards you”. Besotted by his charm of cricketing days, perhaps, some Indian analysts are ready to ignore his anti-India rants and pitching for bilateral talks. Lest India forgets, freshly elected Pakistani leaders have always sent a message of peace. India shouldn’t fall for this trap and reinvent the cycle of bilateral peace. Khan an offshoot of radical Islam is believed to have confessed that a cricket match against India has been a jihad for him. His overt support to hard core Islamists and fundamentalist clearly outlines his vision for Pakistan. In his earlier political stints, Khan used to regularly address the gathering organised by Qazi Hussain Ahmad, sympathiser of Taliban and Haqqani networks. Hamid Gul, former head of ISI (Inter Service Intelligence), who was responsible for training, recruiting and maintaining the strategic assets of Pakistan, the terror outfits, has been Khan’s political mentor. He is believed to be cofounder of PTI. Khan is believed to have inherited anti-Western attitude from Gul. In all these years, he has never criticised the military dictators of Pakistan- President Zia-ul-Haq and Prevez Musharaf.  Because of his allegiances with Gul, Khan also has strong links with ISI. Needless to say, with Khan as the new Prime Minister of Pakistan, military is set to have an upper hand. Heightening of tensions across the border which has been the new normal is all set to intensify under the “Taliban Khan”.

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Modi’s African Outreach- Visit to Rwanda and Uganda

Bestowing fresh impetus to India’s re-invigorated engagement with African countries, Modi has embarked on a five-day, three-nation visit to Africa on July 23^rd. Africa which is currently basking in global spot light is the venue for 10^th BRICS summit to be held at Johannesburg, South Africa from July 25^th to 27^th. Kicking off his first leg of the tour to the African continent, Modi reached Rwanda, the first ever visit by an Indian Prime Minister. Reciprocating Modi’s proactive quantitative and qualitative African outreach, President Paul Kagame personally received Modi at the airport and extended a warm reception.

Resurgent Africa

Shattering the neo-colonial gloomy portrayal of Africa as hopeless continent back in 2000, Africa is now flush with opportunities and exuding rare optimism. Resurgent Africa with booming middle class is currently a hot bed for economic growth and development. Africa home to six fastest growing economies in the World is now emerging as a bright spot for investments and connectivity projects. Breaking past the colonial legacies and giving major fillip to political and economic resurgence, burying past economic and political vulnerabilities, in 2015, African Union toyed the idea of pan-Africanism and adopted the Agenda 2063 vision.  The document marks 100 years of establishment of AU’s predecessor, the Organisation for African Unity (OAU). It outlined a road map for creating an integrated, prosperous and strong Africa. Despite numerous challenges, leaders of majority of the African countries implemented robust macro-economic policies. Stepping up the pace of economic transformation to ambitiously fulfil the aspirations of bubbling demographic dividend, African Development Bank in 2016 set an agenda for development called “High 5s”. These are -Light up and Power Africa, Feed Africa, Industrialise Africa, Integrate Africa and Improve the quality of life for the people of Africa. Having embarked on the economic and development journey Africa is now seeking partnership with traditional and emerging economies. Catering to the developmental aspirations of Africa, India has also stepped up its engagement. In the past four years, India’s diplomatic outreach has intensified in its scale and speed. In March 2015, Modi visited Seychelles and Mauritius followed by a four-nation visit to Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique and South Africa in 2016. To strengthen ties with Africa, India held third Indo-African summit at New Delhi in October 2015 was attended by all African countries. India has announced a $10 billion Line of Credit for an array of development projects.

African ties with India and China

Over the years, Indo-African relations have relied on long standing historical and cultural links, traditional trade ties and the sizeable Indian diaspora. India strongly supported Africa’s anti-colonial struggle and anti-apartheid movement. After India’s independence, India drew closer to African countries and advocated Asian-African solidarity and the South-South cooperation. Together with African countries India questioned the global inequalities in political and economic order. With its limited capabilities, India maintained strong relations with Africa. In the meanwhile, China with its long economic strides began to cast a foot print on the continent. It rapid progress in cultivating extensive trade ties with fledging African countries. Despite being the late comer in the race, China is now surging ahead. China which established ties with Africa in 1950s has been expanding ties along four frontiers- Infrastructure, military, natural resources and aid and loans. China, a leading arms supplier to Africa, a fortnight ago held China-Africa Defence Security Forum with senior military heads from 50 African countries.  Beijing is now extending military training program to African countries and even started a training centre at Bagamoyo, Tanzania. In a bid to ramp up its global role and influence in Africa Beijing has contributed troops to International Peacekeeping forces in Africa. Aside, defence and security cooperation, even the bilateral trade volume has now crossed the $220 billion mark. While Indo-African bilateral trade is hovering around $70 billion. Statistics suggest that India is trailing behind China in Africa and with its limited resources, India can’t compete with China. While certain strategists rue about India’s failure in building on its strengths and traditional linkages, another line of argument envisions that resurgent Africa has capacity to absorb for more players. Amidst the clichés of the Indo-China competition in the Africa, coincidentally, leaders who are in Africa to attend BRICS missed crossing their paths by few hours in Rwanda. Kicking off his African visit, President Xi visited Rwanda, Senegal to rope in the country under the OBOR. After the BRICS summit at South Africa, he would make a brief stopover at Mauritius.

Rwanda

Modi’s choice of visiting the little known, small, land-locked East African country Rwanda has left people surprised. Rwanda, a   former Belgian colony gained independence in 1962 but the colonial rule sowed seeds of rivalry between the two tribes Hutus and Tutsi. Cycles of violence have been a common feature in Rwanda which intensified and triggered a genocide in 1994. In April 1994, the aircraft of moderate Hutu leader, Juvenal Habyarimana returning after negotiating a peace treaty was shot down sparking a civil war leading to the death of 8,00,000 people mostly Tutsis. Tutsi tribes, a minority constituted 10% of the population fought against the dominant Hutus which refused to do anything to contain the killings. Tutsi’s exiled to Uganda and formed the Rwanda Patriotic Front (RPF) led by Major Paul Kageme.  Launching attacks from across the border they defeated Hutus in 1994 and soon formed government with a Hutu Pasteur Bizimungu as President and Kageme as vice-president. After the resignation of President in 2000, Kageme took over and went to win three consecutive elections in 2003, 2010 and 2017. With a recent constitutional amendment, he is set to remain as President till 2034.

Since 2000, Rwanda made substantially progress. Robust economic reforms have been instrumental in extricating thousands of people from poverty. The country which is now one of the fastest growing economies still thrives on subsistence agriculture. To help people break the vicious cycle of poverty torn by the genocide, Kageme launched Girinka program (meaning one cow per family) in 2006. Cow is considered as prized possession by Rwandans and is believed to improve the finances of the family. The money from selling cows milk, bio-gas generation and as an organic manure alleviated the poverty of people in rural areas.  The families who received cows from government were in turn stipulated to donate calf to the neighbour. Gifting of cows strengthened bonds between people, brought about reconciliation between Tutsis and Hutus and successfully healed wounds of civil war. Cows are considered as best gifts by Rwandans and respecting the sentiments and attachments of people towards cows, Modi has gifted 200 cows on his visit. This deeply thoughtful move of Modi is bound to strengthen ties between India and Rwanda.

After the civil war, India and Rwanda had a defence cooperation in terms of India offering training to Rwandan troops. Kageme has been zealously working towards poverty alleviation and his honest governance is hailed by many countries. Rwanda is the least corrupt country among its neighbours, earned good reputation for complete utilisation of foreign investments. The country which has unique geographical diversity and famous for the gorilla trails is now encouraging tourism. Reports indicate that capital Kigali is one of the cleanest cities in Africa.

Indo-Rwandan Ties

Rwanda, the chair of the African Union, is gateway to East Africa. It has been instrumental towards the establishment of African Continental Free Trade Agreement (AFCTA) which is already signed by 44 countries. Once ratified, this will be the largest group after WTO in terms of participating countries. India’s growing economy can potentially benefit from FTA which can provide access to African markets. Rwanda also plays a major role in UN Mission in Central African Republic (MINUSCA). India has elevated bilateral ties to strategic partnership during Kageme’s visit to India to participate in Vibrant Gujarat Global Summit in 2017. Rwanda is also part of the International Solar Alliance (ISA) and ratified the frame work in 2018.

Rwanda home to 12 million people is on the verge of becoming middle-income country, having picked up a trade-spat with the US is keen on forging ties with developing economies like India and China. The East African country which fall in the great lake system after reducing its dependence on foreign aid, is intent on turning into a technology hub. People of Indian Origin own some of the major industries. With a sustained interest on Africa, India announced opening of a high commission to enable consular and visa facilities at Rwanda soon.

Modi and Kageme reviewed bilateral ties and signed eight MoUs in defence, trade, dairy cooperation, cultural exchange, agriculture etc. India announced two $100 million Line of Credit for development of industrial parks and expansion of SEZ and agriculture. Modi visited Rweru Model village, donated 200 cows and announced $200,000 to Girinka program. He contributed $10,000 each to Gisozi Genocide memorial in Kigali and Imbuto Foundation run by the first lady of Rwanda for girl child education. Modi laid wreath at the genocide memorial, addressed the India Diaspora and participated in the India-Rwanda Business Forum.

Indo-Ugandan Ties

From Kigali, Modi travelled to Kampala where he was accorded a ceremonial welcome. This marks the first bilateral visit by an Indian Prime Minister to Uganda after I.K. Gujral in 1997. India and Uganda’s bilateral ties are characterised by historical, traditional and trade linkages suffered massive set back under Idi Amin Dada who was anti-India. Current President Museveni overturned Amin’s anti-India policies. He extended invitation to the Indian community expelled from Uganda by Amin in 1970s. After President Museveni took over in 1986, he revamped Indo-Ugandan bilateral ties. Uganda is now home to over 30,000 PIOs and NRIs invested over $1 billion, constitute about 0.1% of Uganda’s 35 million population and contribute about 60% of country’s direct taxes.

Uganda, currently the chair of East African community invited Prime Minister Modi to address the Parliament becoming the first Indian Prime Minister to covet such honour. Modi extolled Uganda as “Pearl of Africa”, thanked the President for opening state house for celebration of Diwali and reminisced how India’s freedom struggle is closely linked to Africa. Modi promised to build Gandhi Heritage Centre at Uganda’s Jinja, source of Nile where a portion of Gandhi’s ashes were immersed. He reaffirmed India’s principled support to Africa and pledged to remain proud partner of Africa. He announced two LoCs $141 million for electric lines and $64 million for agriculture and dairy production. He outlined that India-Africa cooperation is guided by 10 principles which includes working towards UN sustainable development goals, improve agriculture, support digital revolution, capacity building, adopting clean energy sources, counter terrorism cooperation, increase global engagement of Africa, working towards democratic global order and need for freedom of navigation in seas. Without making any reference to China, Modi indicated that India’s role in Africa would be predicated on African priorities and not India’s. He pitched India as a benign alternative to China.

At Indian Community centre, President Museveni and Modi unveiled the bust of Sardar Vallabhai Patel and addressed Indian Diaspora. Modi also spoke at meeting organised jointly by Private Sector Foundation of Uganda (PSFU) and Confederation of Indian Industries (CII). Both leaders held bilateral talks and expressed satisfaction at the growing progress in defence cooperation. India has set up Indian Military Training Team in Uganda’s Senior Command and Staff College in Kimaka. Countries asserted the need for greater cooperation in curbing terrorism and signed four MoUs on Defence Cooperation, exemption for diplomatic and official passport holders, cultural exchange and material testing laboratory.

India and Uganda engage at three levels- African Union, bilateral ties and regional economic communities. Despite the historical links dated back to 16^th century, China began structured engagement in 2000 under President Jiang Zemin and established 50 diplomatic missions. India started this process in 2008 and has 29 embassies. In line with India’s vision of deepening partnership with Africa, Modi declared that India will soon open 18 embassies in the continent. While New Delhi is walking an extra mile to re-energise relations with Africa, it is also aware of China’s overtures to the continent. India can find new resonance with Africa if it can bolster quick delivery of projects and enunciate a new vision towards transforming its economic landscape. 

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Has America failed to see wood for the trees?

It’s been almost three days and the hysteria of Trump-Putin summit meet refuses to die. In line with his characteristic presidential style of delivering flip-flops and awkward diplomatic gaffes, President Trump delivered yet another blooper by undermining his own intelligence agencies. America is perturbed by the fact that Russia meddled in 2016 Presidential elections and by Trump’s admission that both countries are responsible for deteriorating bilateral ties.

 America’s two leading media outlets triggered a panic reaction with catchy descriptions of the engagement, as “Trump, Treasonous Traitor” and “Trump is now repaying Putin for helping him the presidency” respectively, others soon followed the suit. The outrage of democrats and the Republic congress men has been unprecedented. Mc Cain described Trump’s approach as “one of the most disgraceful by an American president in memory”. Paul Ryan, a firm supporter of Trump, carefully evaded media on Trump’s performance at NATO saying, “we shouldn’t be criticizing out president while he is overseas”. Lashed out at Trump, “There is no question that Russia interfered in our election and continues attempts to undermine democracy here and around the World. The President must appreciate that Russia is not our ally”. These strong words from the Republicans catalysed a maelstrom, with media channels running the story for hours with a parade of critics making vitriolic comments about Trump’s handshake and subsequent engagement with Putin. Even the America think-tanks and intelligence agencies unequivocally reprimanded Trump for his conduct. To satiate the angst of hyperventilating media and political establishment which has turned into judge, jury and executioner, White House and Trump went into damage control mode. But the hysteria borne out the deep dislike towards Trump showed no signs of resumption. By outrightly terming Trump as being obsequious and a puppet of Putin, the media has hit itself in the foot.

Trump’s stance on Russia

In his past one and half years of tenure as President, Trump took a firm stand on Russia than his counterparts. He approved sale of huge cache of sophisticated weapons to Ukraine, bombed Syria for using chemical weapons, expelled Russian diplomats in response to contentious spy poisoning case, ordered closure of consulate at Seattle, reaffirmed opposition to Euro-Russian Nord 2 oil pipeline passing through Germany and openly castigated Germany as “captive to” and “totally controlled” by Russia. Trump administration even passed the Countering America’s Adversaries Through Sanctions Act (CAATSA) imposing sanctions on Iran, North Korean and Russia. Notwithstanding the economic sanctions imposed on Russia post Crimean annexation in 2014, America has brought about this new act crippling the defence, energy and business ties of Russia with its allies. These stifling secondary sanctions are an attempt to muzzle and coerce Russia into changing its behaviour. This plethora of actions suffice to say that Trump hadn’t made any special concessions to Russia.  But Trump’s soft stance stems from his interest to seek universal legitimacy of being elected fairly and a deep instinct to create a history by engaging with hard core, authoritarian leaders like Putin and Kim where previous American administration has failed.

In fact, India’s $ 4.5 billion agreement for purchase of S-400 Triumf air defense missile system from Russia in the final stages of negotiation is caught in this power rivalry. New Delhi is desperately seeking US congress cooperation under “national security waiver”.  To this end, India is greatly favouring US rapprochement with Russia.

America’s Electoral Interventions

Media’s unending vitriolic outbursts exemplifies America’s refusal to bury cold war animosities. While America is enraged by the yet to be confirmed reports of Russian intervention in 2016 elections, for years, both countries have been interfering other countries elections. As per data base maintained by scientist at Carnegie Mellon, America interfered in foreign elections more frequently than Russia. It precisely lists that American intervened as many as 80 times citing the example of Serbia elections in 2000 where America assisted opposition to defeat Slobodan Milosevic. The exhaustive compilation doesn’t include American aided coups- Iranian coup, 1953 and 1954 Guatemalan coup. While the number of Russian interventions in the same timeline (1945-2000) was 36 followed by China.

Every time, America seems to get away on the pretext of saving democracy. But how can America justify its support to Boris Yeltsin, an authoritarian in 1996 elections and the malafide intent of Western advisors, Larry Summers and IMF, who prompted Yeltsin to convert Russia into a market economy which left the economy crashing. The sudden shock therapy as it was called, led to privatisation of state firms and genesis of new tribe of Oligarchs. These corrupt, politically connected Oligarchs plundered Russian economy which borrowed $20 billion after 1990 and fled to western countries. Russia plunged into an economic crisis after losing one-third of its economy in 1998.

To its credit, America has introduced the concept of “Demonstration Elections”. A term first used to refer elections conducted by US regime in Dominican Republic, El Salvador and Vietnam. Strategists argued that it was America’s way of taking control of third world countries. But America defended all its attempts to indirectly control a foreign country as a means of promoting “democracy” and “freedom”. Intriguingly, American media, saviour of liberal values, human rights violation and democracy ever broaches about American intervention in foreign neither. Equally they weren’t ever incensed by Bush’s invasion of Iraq, termination of Muammar Gaddafi’s rule, Regan’s uninterrupted weapons supply to guerrilla groups in Central America.

Majority now allude that perhaps, Russia has compromising material about Trump and hence he has been so forgiving of Russia. For all its apprehensions of Russian spying, American media failed to ignore the real danger lurking in the corner. Even after Australia and New Zealand raised alarm over Beijing’s insidious operations to influence political opinion, Washington hasn’t woken to this danger.

China shaping American Society

Chinese penetration into domestic politics of not an epiphany anymore. The recent spate of political scandals in Australia promoted Prime Minister Malcom Turnbull to institute a commission. The report spilled beans of prolonged Chinese attempts to influence politicians, media, and academia. Interestingly, a similar grand plan has been underway since World War-II in United States as well. Former CIA analyst has deliberated that Chinese agents are at work in US “to turn Americans against their own government’s interests and their society’s interests”. While wider debate about such a network is hardly discussed in America but clearly, the self-proclaimed “Peaceful reunification” associations with an objective of unification of China with main land China are spread across 70 different cities in the US is an offshoot of United Front. United Front has been working under wraps since World War-II to “buy-off, co-opt or coerce influential community leaders”. This organisation is in hand-in-glove with Chinese intelligence services and works at the behest of Chinese Communist Party (CCP). With time it has acquired the clout to sway public opinion and to popularise Beijing’s policies among non-Chinese people. It is enhancing Chinese foreign policy agenda. This department is fomenting discord and encouraging racial divisions, undermining democracy. As on paper, all these organisations maintain that they have no connections with Chinese government, but the lie was busted when a Chinese agent imprisoned for stealing trade secrets was found to be a member of United Front. Chinese has been carefully building an army of secret agents who for decades are clandestinely shaping American society against its own government and nudging them favourably towards Chinese policies.

Cold War Assurances of Western Powers

Before labelling Russia as the aggressor, it would serve well for American democrats specially to rewind the pledges made to Soviet Union after the fall of Berlin war. Declassified documents from the Cold war era, “Who promised what to whom on NATO expansion?” unveils the real story. Days before the end of Cold war, leaders of US, UK, France and Germany allaying fears of Mikhail Gorbachev assured that Germany unification process will not lead to, “impairment of Soviet security interests” accordingly NATO expansion of NATO boundaries “towards east, moving it closer to the Soviet borders” is ruled out. Even promised to leave out the eastern portion of Germany out of NATO military structure even after unification. Thrice US secretary of state James Baker, pledged, “not an inch of NATO’s present military jurisdiction will spread in an eastern direction”. Subsequently US and Soviet Union called for dissolution of military blocs, Soviet’s gradual integration with Europe and agreed that there are neither winners nor losers. In 1991, NATO secretary-general Manfred Woerner said, “we should not allow the isolation of the USSR from the European community” and indicated that 13 of 16 NATO council members are against expansion. But before Gorbachev could convince the hardliners in Soviet of the West’s propositions, leaders in Soviet plotted for eventually fall of Soviet Union. By December 1991, Soviet Union collapsed and soon lost its strategic clout significantly. Despite these assurances currently former allies of Soviet Union -Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland, Bulgaria, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Albania, Croatia, and Montenegro are in NATO fold. Now America is making aggressive bids to bring Ukraine, Georgia, the closet neighbours of Russia into NATO’s fold. Consequently, the betrayal of the Western powers provides legitimacy to Russia’s grievances.

But another subsequent article, titled “What Gorbachev did not hear?” defending America’s aggression of roping in former Soviet allies it argued that Warsaw pact dissolved in 1991, Soviet Union collapsed, and subsequently central European countries showed interest to expressed desire to join NATO.

America’s Antipathy towards Russia

America’s antipathy towards Soviet is largely ideological. US establishment has been paranoid of Soviet establishing “socialist workers paradise”. With these unwarranted fears, US explored the rift between the two large Communist nations, Russia and China. In 1972 President Nixon made an important economic and strategic overture to China. America pledged cooperation towards global integration of Chinese economy. Overwhelmed by Soviet phobia, America turned a blind eye to Chinese aggressive and strategic belligerence. Ironically even now America castigates Russia as a threat to the free world, while the real oppression and blatant violation of human rights is an undeniable reality in China. Russia is now a quasi-democracy, while China is administered by a single party and presided by an Emperor for a life time.

Though Russia’s nuclear arsenal are on par with America, burdened by a struggling economy Moscow can no longer compete with Washington. It doesn’t make it to the top ten economies of the World and even its defence expenditure has come down drastically. Other than defence sales and energy exports Russia long ceased to be major trading partner. China has now displaced Russia. Strategists now say, while Russia may not like to play a second fiddle, unprecedented vilification of Russia will drive Moscow into China’s embrace. The strategic heft of China-Russia collusion can pose great geopolitical challenges for America. It is hard to grasp why America still seeks to foster ties with another authoritarian communist regime, China since this ideological aversion has been the root of decades long cold war and unnerving animosities forcing nations to align with two strategic military blocs. For all its tall claims of making great strategic decisions, America has been instrumental in rise of a belligerent China which is now threatening Washington’s interests globally.

Under the watchful eye of President Obama, China has reclaimed islands in South China Sea. Now Beijing has successfully militarised them. While the American media and intellectuals are engaged in unprecedented vitriolic campaign on Trump’s conduct, China is intensifying its threats across cross-straits. At this juncture a prolonged hullabaloo of American media over Trump’s attempts to engage with Russia and a likely invitation to Putin to white house may be counterintuitive.

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Road trip to Leh-Ladakh Part-III

The sight of state of Jammu and Kashmir board reminded us of Mughal Emperor Jahangir’s quote- gar Firdaus bar-rue zamin ast, hami asto, hamin asto, hamin ast- which means-if there is heaven on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here. After crossing Sarchu which is not at a higher elevation when compared to Baralacha La, we were seized by High Altitude Sickness (HAL). Harsh sunlight further aggravated our discomfort. Driving through desolate mountainous terrain at a high elevation through mystic rock formations will force anyone to cherish the marvels of nature. Soon we drove towards the much talked GATA loops, though I can’t figure out the logic of name GATA. Certainly, this part was another toughest and tiring phase of our journey. The place is well-known for its haunted story. It is believed that once a truck driver, supposed to make an urgent delivery was traveling through this highway. Suddenly, his associate and cleaner of truck falls sick and to fetch water for his mate, he leaves the ailing cleaner and goes in search of water. He reaches a village in search of water by foot. But by the time, he reaches the village, the weather worsens, starts snowing heavily, forcing him to take shelter at the village for the next two days. By the time he reaches the truck parked near Gata loops with water, the cleaner had succumbed to death. Left with no other option, the driver buries the cleaner there and moves ahead. It is now popularly believed that even now, an old man, is seen at the Gata loops asking water. Interestingly, even now, we can find a pile of water bottles near a temple like mount with bricks there. 

Beyond Sarchu

Near GATA Loops

GATA Loops

The arduous steep ascent with 21 hairpins on winding section of the road is not only challenging but the breath taking scenic beauty of the place leaves anyone spell bound. We arrived at this zone at around 12 noon and hence driving through these meandering curves has been exacting with the sunrays directly hitting the mirror and obstructing vision. Scorching sun drained our energies. After passing through these loops just before the third highest Nakee La, pass feeling completely dehydrated and tired, we pulled our car to an edge and slept. Compounding physical stress, I noticed my husband’s face turning red and when I touched his forehead, his body was hot. He began to show all symptoms of viral fever. I suddenly felt helpless, since all our mobiles stopped working after Keylong and there was no way I could call for any help or assistance. He complained of difficulty in breathing. Keeping myself calm and alert, I asked him to rest and forced him to drink lots of water.  As a precaution, to avoid any stomach sickness, during the strenuous mountain drive, we thrived on fruits and other easily digestible stuff. But never anticipated that we will suffer from HAS. After a break for one hour, we resumed driving and crossed fourth high mountain pass on this route-Lachulung La, at 16,600 ft. Though our overnight stay at Keylong had been a good acclimatisation, my husband was affected by sickness. Better road conditions made our drive through this pass relatively easy. To our relief as we descended the pass, we found few tented accommodations and dabhas, several kilometres ahead of Pang. We searched for a place where my husband could lie down for a while and relax. After taking medicine he slept for over hour and got better. 

The small temporary dhabhas which exist for at the most four months of a year are real life saviours. Located in the remotest parts of the World, these dhabhas have good stocks of nearly all the essential items needed to serve a hungry traveller. The hospitality extended by the locals in these small eateries is priceless. While the town and city dwellers are to be constantly reminded of cleanliness while serving customers, people in these high mountain terrains will certainly stump us with their etiquettes in hospitality. They invariably served customers tasty and piping hot food. Severed from the maddening crowds, who claim to be the face of modern civilisation, locals in the mountain terrain simply awed us with the way they offered food in sparking clean dishes. Noticing my anxiety, an elderly woman, who runs the dhabha with his husband, initiated conversation. Upon hearing about illness, she recommended a strong tea, some rest and medicines. She informed that in case of urgency, we can rush to the nearest Army camp, which provides good medical facilities. Keeping fingers crossed, I just prayed for my husband’s recovery and thankfully after few hours of rest, he was good to go.

Towards Pang

The road towards Pang is completely broken and unimaginably gutted. Driving through the valley next to towering mountains and a flowing river alongside under punishing sun was really tiring. This discomfort was exacerbated by terrible roads. Dust began to rise as huge cloud whenever a truck overtook us. At places the road became narrow and frozen rivulet flowing next to the road, gave an illusion of fine sand over the river bed. Unable to contain this surprise, we crossed a barbed wire to walk on the riverbed. It turned out be a glaciated stream. The unending bends and loops on these dusty roads led us into a mysterious wonderland, resembling the sets of Lord of Rings or miniature Grand Canyon. Mesmerising rock formations transported us to a wonderland that offered surreal experiences. The breath taking arch formation amidst these mountain ranges left us spellbound. Soon we made to highest army camp of the World at Pang situated at 15,640 ft. 

Rock Formation

Stunning rock formations

From Pang, the journey got better as the roads are exceptionally good. Despite the sudden ascent, the fantastic scenic beauty liberated us of listlessness and mental fatigue. After 4km uphill drive, we reached one of the World’s highest plateaus in the lap of Himalayas. Extending over 40 kms, its is perhaps the most beautiful place one can ever imagine. The picturesque beauty of place is simply amazing. Aside the stunning rock formations etched on the distant mountain slopes, the vast expanse of the extensive sand fields embellished with grass stubbles added a distinct beauty to the place. The late afternoon sunlight reflection created characteristic mirages with a golden hue. With no trace of human habitations, the distinct golden hue that pervaded the open fields, in the unspoiled environment qualified to be a fallen piece of paradise on earth. The surreal experience of nature in its splendid hues can leave anyone spellbound. Filling our hearts and minds with the mystifying beauty of this pristine beauty, we drove past these plains which had one of the best roads in this entire stretch. While the pothole-free roads might tempt the rider to drive at 120kmph, the road is quite bumpy, and driver must exercise extreme caution. Soon we reached Debring which bifurcates towards Tso Kar. We avoided the road to Tso Kar and continued our journey towards Taglang La, pass, fifth Pass on this Manali-Leh highway. The road towards Taglang La are extremely steep and most people often have trouble in breathing. It has the reputation of being one of the most dangerous roads in India. Baring occasional motorbike and trucks, the roads are almost deserted, the mountain slopes are barren. Perched at a height of over 17,400 ft, though we encountered some bad patches on road, we closed on to the summit relatively easily. But the sharp sunrays of setting Sun dehydrated us. The summit has numerous Buddhist prayer flags. Typical of higher elevations, people can experience dizziness due to low oxygen levels. We just clicked few snaps and moved on.

Moore Plains

Unlike City dwellers who boast themselves as torch bearers of modern civilisation and are adamant to even acknowledge the existence of a higher power, people in hills have supreme faith in the creator of this magnificent universe. They adore and worship the omniscience of this Divine power in various forms. They revere, respect, protect the nature and all geographical manifestations. While we tend to mock their tradition of worshiping mountains, rivers, streams or even hot springs their lives are inextricably connected to nature. Being closer to nature they are vulnerable to natural calamities. Even mildest disturbance in nature can create a havoc in their lives. Life on upper terrains is very difficult and full of challenges. Hence these people pray nature for strength and to cope up with extreme weather conditions or natural calamities. The undubitable faith in Divine is source of their inexhaustible courage and equipoise to embrace nature and its fury alike.

Descending Taglang La 

Maintenance of roads at such elevation is a great challenge and kudos to the (BRO) Border Roads Organisation and its operational force, GREF (General Road Engineering Force) for their painstaking efforts in keeps roads in excellent condition. This task of building roads and maintenance of its allied infrastructure in the Ladakh region started in 1985 is styled as Project Himank. Their catchy punchlines at various places is just a sweet reminder of exercising caution while driving on these rather steep and dangerous curves. 

Downhill drive was quite relaxing and soon we approached Rumste, a small town with good number of chortens. Treks to Tso Moriri, Tso Kar and Spiti Valley start from here. With plains approaching we could spot some vegetation and suddenly the hills turned so colourful exuding a special charm. We crossed villages Sasoma and Gva which were extremely clean with no trace of plastic of any debris of any sort. The roads of these villages would put even most advanced metros of the country to shame who lack basic civic sense.

Rumtse

We drove next to hills which are had truly unique formations. The steep slopes in their splendid greenish brown hues resembled slides in children’s recreation park…their natural counterparts of gigantic proportions. Few kilometres ahead of Upshi, another town, we had the first sighting of the Indus or the Sindhu river, after which our great country, derives its name. We paid toll at Upshi and soon crossed Karu, a small town with a huge military cantonment and petrol pump. The last petrol pump was at Tandi village 10km before Keylong. Leh is 34km from Karu. The huge overarching mountains from Karu were entirely different and resembled huge mounds of sand. Sandstorms are quite common in the region. Indeed, majority of the monasteries and Shey palace are constructed on these huge sandy mounds. By the time we reached Leh, darkness has set in. After a long and strenuous journey, we just longed to hit the bed. Unsure of our travel plans, we haven’t booked any room earlier. So, we were back on the streets of Leh in search of a decent accommodation and luckily we managed to find one without much difficulty. 

Jarred-rock cut formations

Pics Courtesy: Dr. T. L.S. Bhaskar

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Sham elections and fake democracy of Pakistan

With little less than a fortnight to Pakistan’s general elections, high political drama unfolds with the arrest of three-time Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif and his daughter Maryam Nawaz in Avenfield property case. Earlier, National Accountability Bureau (NAB) convicting both on corruption charges pronounced a verdict of £8 million fine and 10 years jail term for Sharif and £2.5 million fine, 7 years imprisonment and as punishment for Maryam Sharif. Pakistan observers described this development nothing less than a “judicial coup”. Sharif’s imprisonment without proper trial confirmed Pakistan’s sanctimonious reputation of fictitious democracy. Since independence in 1947, not even a single prime minister has completed a full term. Nearly all of them are either assassinated, imprisoned, coerced or ousted from power in military coups. Indeed, the entire façade of a democratic civil administration is just a gloss since the real power lies with military establishment. Strong institutional framework, characteristic of every democratic country is in tatters in Pakistan.

It is a no secret that authoritarianism of military subdues every other institution in Pakistan coming in its path. Corruption has been a menacing issue in Pakistan. Interestingly military-intelligence ecosystem of the country which is making piquant argument of culling corrupt politicians should be subjected to such scrutiny for being endemically corrupt. Besides, the two edicts which are now cited as reasons for disqualification of Sharif-sadiq and ameen meaning honesty and righteousness are added to the constitution in 1980 under the third schedule by despotic Mohammed Zia-ul-Haq. Determined to steer Pakistan towards Islamization, Haq argued that legislators should conform to these basic tenets. Ever since not a single politician was ever punished for corruption.

In 2016 facing international backlash for failing to rein in on the activities of terror modules operating from Pakistani territory, Sharif pulls up Pakistan military. This unprecedented warning and civil administration’s tough posturing has irked military but struck cord with aspirations of common man. Sharif’s reputation a tough politician began to find ground. Even his eventual re-election in 2018 seemed certain. At this juncture, military who scoffed Sharif, supported Imran Khan’s, prime minister aspirant and founder of Pakistan Tehreek Insaf (PTI) demand for probe into Panama Papers revelations. Soon a JIT (Joint Investigation Team) was constituted with ISI and intelligence officers in November 2016. Pakistan military thus diligently employed political rivalry and ambitions of Khan to engineer ouster of Sharif meticulously.  In July 2017, Supreme Court, disqualified Prime Minister Sharif on corruption allegations for concealing his assets, bringing about his unceremonious exit one year ahead of his full term. With this the three-time Prime Minister failed to complete not even a single term completely.

Sharif, born into the family of Kashmiri industrialists in 1949, devastated by the nationalisation of their family steel business joined Pakistan Muslim League (PML) party in 1976. Military who was looking for an urban politician found Sharif promising and groomed him. Soon Sharif developed good connections with Pakistan’s top tier army officials and steadily rose in political circles. He was inducted as finance minister in federal cabinet in 1981 and in 1985 he became chief minister of Punjab and formed PML-N (Nawaz). PML (N), a conservative, capitalist right wing party soon dumped nationalisation policy of Haq. Under the tenure of Sharif, Punjab registered substantial growth which catapulted his reputation as a committed leader. With the support of military establishment, he became Prime Minister in 1990 and in 1993 he was removed by President. He was re-elected in 1997 but was overthrown in a military coup by General Pervez Musharraf. Convicted of corruption charges in 2000, he exiled to Saudi Arabia and following Presidential pardon after ouster of Pervez Musharraf he returned to Pakistan but lost in the 2008 elections. In 2013, Sharif was elected as Prime Minister for third time.

Just before elections, in April, inflicting a huge blow to Sharif’s political career, Supreme Court pronounced a life time ban from political office. In what can be termed as the unparalleled witch-hunt, Supreme Court, working in tandem with Pakistan military convicted Sharif and his political heir Maryam in absentia on July 6^th.

Sharif’s conviction has become matter of intense debate since military didn’t raise any objections to any of his corrupt practices in the initial days of his political career. Military which had busy in handling other political rivals ignored Sharif’s pursuit towards wealth acquisition. Husain Haqqani, former Pakistani Ambassador precisely points out to this aspect, “One need not be convinced of Sharif’s innocence to observe that he was victim of less than transparent legal proceedings. His downfall started when military got upset with an article in Dawn suggesting that civilian government wanted to act against jihadis but the military did not”. In 1990’s military’s crackdown on Benazir Bhutto’s Pakistan People’s Party (PPP) on corruption charges significantly enhanced electoral prospects of PML (N). By parting ways with military Sharif has become victim of Pakistan’s perverse judicial system while Imran Khan is reaping political benefits of military’s targeted campaign against his rival. Khan who is now cynosure of deep state is currently leading the electoral race of 2018.

More than two decades into active politics, Imran Khan of Pakistan Tehreek-e-Insaf, (PTI) having learned tricks of trade is now inching closer to his dream of becoming Prime Minister. According to reports, PTI is likely to emerge as the single largest party. The military in cahoots with judiciary having literally stone-walled the electoral prospects of Nawaz Sharif’s PML (N) has eased Imran’s journey to the coveted post. Khan who has imbued all the desirable attributes of playing perfect fiddle to military is now poised to win the elections. While political parties like PPP is denied permission to hold rallies Khan never encountered such difficulties. Even media was ordained to allot more air time to Khan and asked to black out any disparaging content against Khan. Rehman Khan, second wife of Khan was issued a legal notice to stop publishing her book alleging Khan of fathering five illegitimate kids. Accordingly, even Khan’s previous stint as a flamboyant play-boy image is also made up to suit the conservative approach. To buttress, Khan’s portrayal as incorruptible, corruption charges against him are quashed by Supreme Court. Khan entered the elections with a single point agenda of fighting corruption and accountability.  Reuters claims that 21 candidates PML(N) lawmakers have switched sides and joined PTI following threats of corruption charges against them by intelligence agents. While Khan denies having any understanding with military generals the collusion seems to be more than significant.

Poll surveys predict an overwhelming win for Khan in 2018 elections. Chasing his dream, Khan forged ties with fundamentalist Islamic groups. He now supports blasphemy, tows a strong Anti-Americanism, a prerequisite for such alliances. He strongly denounces liberals as scum, has little respect for democratic values and clings to retrograde views. His anti-India narrative and an aggressive Kashmir policy has earned him friends from deep state. In short, he has aligned with every possible group in Pakistan with significant clout for his political ascension. At a time, when Pakistan ailing economy is reeling under the burden of spiralling trade deficit and debts, neither military nor the people seem to be least bothered about attributes of plausible prime minister candidate. Ironically Pakistan Army is not interested in a realistic and independent leader but aspires to bequeath power to a pliable and amenable person. Though Pakistan proclaims itself as a democratic country, upcoming elections are everything other than being free and fair. Clearly, these elections will neither revive Pakistan’s stuttering economy nor bring respite from reign of terror. While military made grand efforts for a smooth sail of Khan in elections, Sharif’s return to Pakistan to court arrest has tilted the scales in favour of the later.

Though Pakistan is turning into a jihadi den, military has turned blind eye towards it and indeed, it is now making every effort to mainstream cultivated strategic assets, Jihadi militant outfits. Over 150 candidates from extremist groups, some of who are included in fourth schedule for terrorism are now allowed to contest. Hafiz Talha Saeed, son and Hafiz Khaleed Wahleed son-in-law of JuD (Jammat ud Dawa) head Hafiz Saeed, who masterminded 26/11 and carries $10million bounty for terror activities are now contesting elections. JuD earlier formed a political party, Mili Muslim League (MML) to fight elections. But election commission (EC) refused to recognise this party. Saeed’s motely group of 265 terrorists are now in election fray under the little known political party, Allahu Akbar Tehreek (AAT) registered with EC.

In the run up to election three lethal bomb rocked secular parties’ election campaigns at Bannu, Mastung and Peshawar raising concerns of burgeoning radical terrorism and ineptness of Pakistan’s military and intelligence. SC issued fresh summons for illegally channelling funds through benami accounts were issued to PPP Co-Chairman Asif Zardari and his sister Faryal Talpur and FIA took Zardari’s aide Hussain Lawai, a banker. Ironically, the military instead of addressing the security lapses worked overnight to put Sharif behind bars.

Unlike in 2000, when Sharif sought Presidential pardon and exiled to Saudi Arabia, he has decided to put up a stiff fight. Crushing the raising support for Sharif, Punjab police issued orders to arrest, PML (N) leader, former federal railway minister Saad Rafique, seven PML(N) leaders are kept under house arrest. Over 400 party workers are detained to thwart any attempts to welcome Sharif. Sharif who has returned to Lahore after posting poignant pictures faring good bye to his ailing wife Kulsoom Nawaz to court arrest is currently riding high on sympathy wave. While army might have accomplished the task of crushing Sharif by lodging him and his heir apparent Maryam Nawaz. In the meanwhile, PML (N) has intensified twitter campaign on illegal detention of party workers and unprecedented restraints on freedom of press. Upright journalists are assaulted or even kidnapped. Sharif’s reputation seems to have surged with his masterstroke of courting arrest. Urban populace is now increasingly considerate about Sharif. The party which seems to have lost out in the election race has picked up momentum is now heavily banking on the loyalties of Punjabi electorate. Sharif’s has sought legal recourse and appealed for bail which is turned down by Supreme Court. SC argued that Sharifs should be held in jail until the completion of elections. Army as the most-powerful institute is highly revered in Pakistan, but crackdown of civil liberties with iron hand might eventually open a new dynamic. High profile drama days before election has effectively set stage for an election thriller.

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Road Trip to Leh-Ladakh Part-II

Enjoying the fresh breeze from the towering snow-peaked ranges, we drove towards Jispa Valley, at elevation of 10,500 ft along the Bagha river 22km from Keylong. While it began to drizzle, we passed through herds of goat and sheep guarded by mountain dogs attended by shepherds whose day begins quite early. Jispa Valley is immensely popular among bikers and tourists for the make-shift tent accommodations erected by river side. This is most favoured place for night halt as it is the last place with a decent camp site or accommodation till Sarchu. This thinly habited town has a helipad, post office, school and a small tribal museum. We reached Darcha, 6km from Jispa Valley where we got our permit checked at the village entrance. After crossing a bridge that connected the place to the next hill, we located beautiful Deepak Lake. Close to the lake there are few dabhas with arrangements for night stay.

Towards Jispa Valley

Jispa Valley

Darcha

Patseo

Though the roads are okay, the top layer is chipped away at places due to landslides and rains. From Darcha, the road begins to slowly ascend towards Patseo which has an army transit camp and Zingzingbar. While no one knows how the place such a fancy name, but as we moved towards the place, I shuddered as we had to cross the nasty pagalnallah, which in fact is a huge stream that flows over the road. Most of the vehicles get stuck in this nallah. Driving through this notorious deeply pitted road is a real test for driver’s common sense and dexterity at the wheel. This treacherous stretch of just less than 50 mts saps off driver’s energy. As we were nearing the stream, everything seemed ok with a truck leading us. But suddenly, the truck stopped and soon we realised that a car got stuck. People gathered, pushed, shoved the car for good 30 min to lift it from the broken crevices of the road. Thanks to the combined physical efforts and inputs of people, the car was retrieved without much damage. When it was our turn to cross the nallah, expect for the person who is driving, all of us got out the car. Without applying clutch, my husband drove the car in first gear with relatively high pedal on the accelerator. I heaved big sigh of relief when as he drove past the so-called, traveller’s nightmare skilfully.

Pagalnallah@ Zingzingbar

Zingzing bar, is a small settlement of road builders camped at an altitude of 14,000 ft, 18km from Baralachala. Every year due to heavy snow and landslides Leh-Manali gets badly damaged and these builders tend to these repairs. Exhausted mentally and physically after crossing the nallah, we halted at one the highest peace-joints of the World which has provision for night stay as well. Perched at a high altitude as we sat down for a warm cup of tea, a blanket of cold breeze suddenly enveloped us stripping us away of our listlessness, mental and physical fatigue. Within minutes inexplicable peace descended on us. Till the Kullu Valley and during our journey through Lahaul valley, the landscape was beautifully etched with patches of greenery. Ideally different hues of vegetation add a surreal touch of beauty to the place. Along the Manali-Leh highway, beyond Darcha, there are no trace of vegetation since it falls under the rain shadow region. Due to absence of rainfall, harsh climatic conditions and high elevation there wasn’t any trace of greenery around. But these barren overwhelming mountain ridges spread across the huge expanse of the region were truly mystical.

Settlements at Zingzingbar

After crossing Zingzingbar, the climb to Baralachala La, 55km away is absolutely breath taking. Anyone who hasn’t ever touched a camera would long for it to capture the scenic beauty of the place which is indescribable. The mountains enroute the pass is covered with snow. We made made few stops to just feel the snow and enjoy the chilling breezes. The roads are quite decent for such high elevation and as we ascended we passed next to scores of army trucks. Meandering through the roads at height of over 15,000ft is an awesome feeling. Just three kilometres ahead of the pass, on to the right we crossed Suraj Taal, the third highest lake in India. While it might look deceptively too small, it is source of Bhaga river. The road here is very narrow which becomes slushy and intermittently patched towards the pass, Baralacha La, at height of 16,000 ft. It is the highest mountain pass in the Zanskar range connecting the Lahual district and Ladakh district and dividing the Bhaga and Yunam river.

Towards Baralacha La

Suraj Taal

For all practical purposes, travel down the highest pass should have been easy. But the bad roads have really the fun off the downhill drive. The 34km drive from Baralacha La to Sarachu is back breaking due to the terrible road condition. One needs extraordinary patience to drive through Killing Sarai, a rather weird name. Massive road construction work is going on this entire stretch and numerous tents are erected next to water streams that served as accommodation for workers. The road condition is no better in the adjacent Bharatpur. Broken roads really made us restless and prompted us to talk to a family resting in a car parked by roadside. They assured that barring few patches, the rest of the journey is going to be a cakewalk. Drawing some enthusiasm for their encouraging assurances, we drove towards Sarchu. A place with all attributes of a typical cold desert landscape. Sarchu also known as Sir Bhum Chun is at an elevation of 14,070ft though less punitive than Baralacha La has winds blowing at relatively high speeds. By 10:30 am, when we reached the place, winds hardly had any humidity, but the harsh sunrays began to hit us. To recover from the discomfort of knocks and jerks earlier, we parked the car by the side of the road and began to relax dropping down car shades. 

Baralacha La

Bharatpur

At Sarchu for the first time we began to experience the fatigue and a pang of severe headache. To beat this mountain sickness, we tried to remain hydrated and drank ample amounts of water at regular intervals. Sarchu, is completely devoid of any vegetation and has a rare rustic beauty which is simply enthralling. As far as we could see, the place was totally desolate and deserted. Except for the camping tents and a distant army camp, the place opened to bare mountains. Separating the huge tracks of barren lands and the overlooking mountains is a small glacier melt, Tsarap River, which is barely flowing. On entering the Zanskar Range, it becomes the much-revered Indus or Sindhu River. Sarchu has unique and captivating rock formations. The typical temple mount kind of rock cut structures embossed at the foot of mountains added a special aura to the place. Overpowered by High Altitude Sickness, we rested in our car at Sarchu for almost one and hour. 

Sarchu

Sarchu, is border between Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir. At the army check post, we got our permit checked. Crossing the border check post is a huge ordeal, since the road is literally gutted down and badly damaged. 

More rock formations

Sarchu checkpost

Photos courtesy @ Dr. T. L. S. Bhaskar

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