Tuesday, 1 April 2014

A Road Trip To Dwarka & Surrounding Places

Since it is the election season despite our keen interest about the outcome of the elections, as we set off on a road trip to Dwarka from Somnath, 230 km away, our focus has shifted to the inside story of Gujarat. This election season, progress and development of Gujarat has been the key electoral issue and people all over the nation are keen to learn about this state in particular and about the progress & welfare of people in particular. So we were all eyes to observe every nook and corner of the state during our long drive. Long drives offer the best opportunity to interact with people and the liberty to break the journey any time to investigate a new place. It is surprising that people in this region seems to have unambiguous and unequivocal stance on various issues and majority seem to be satisfied with the present state of affairs.
The stretch of the Kathiawar peninsula we are travelling is humid and extremely hot. Due to some preoccupations we started little late in the day so had to bear the brunt of the scorching heat. But it has been a visual treat to drive through the country side. People are very friendly decked up in colourful and bright clothes from top to bottom, a guileless way of protecting themselves from the hot climate. Both men and women are seen wearing several ornaments and gold nuggets. The roads undeniably were good by Indian standards except for very patches where construction was going on. During our entire course of journey we came across with constructions or renovations. This region has lush green fields with cotton, sugarcane and castor crops. Apart from these small luxurious patches in certain village hamlets with coconut plantations and other fruit trees reminded me of the coastal districts of Andhra Pradesh.
Dhirubhai Ambani's House at Chorwad
Around 30 km from Somanth, we stopped at a place Chorwad. a village on International map for being the native place of the industrialist Dhirubhai Ambani, founder of Reliance Industries in Bombay. We had a glance of the building where the industrialist lived. A memorial was instituted in 2011 in the building commemorating his 80th birth anniversary. Our next stopover was Madhavpur beach, a beautiful coastline lined with coconut trees. It is believed that Lord Krishna married Rukmini in this village Madhavpur. It acclaimed importance as it has a long conservation project on the endangered marine species Green Sea and Olive Ridley Turtles.
 
Madhavpur beach
The long drive along the coastline is fantastic with the cool sea breeze giving respite from the hot sun. Further this entire stretch of the coastline has numerous 1000 MW windmills installed by the Suzlon Corporation to tap the unexplored potential of the huge coastline of Gujarat. We briefly halted at the temple of Narvai mata a famous Goddess of the region with Crocodile as her carrier. The temple is located besides the road but was calm, quiet with lot of positive vibes.
Narvai Mataji Temple
We were then eagerly looking forward for our next halt Porbander. The city is incidentally the birthplace of Sudhama and Mirabhai (devotee of Lord Krishna).  As we entered the city, we were advised to visit Sudhamapuri, a temple dedicated to Lord Krishna’s friend Sudhama. This place is highly revered among the Rajasthani Kshatryia’s who visit the temple immediately after marriage to confess sins and invoke blessings of Sudhama for a happy married life.  This temple was built in early 1900 in the centre of the city. Interestingly, this temple has a maze and there is a popular belief that crossing the maze would remove all the sins. Though I simply dismissed the belief I crossed the maze just to get rid of the weariness of the journey and to adorn a playful mood.
 
Sudhamapuri Temple
 
 
Maze at Sudhamapuri
 
Our next halt was the much awaited Kirti Mandir the memorial of Mahatma Gandhi. It is memorial built in memory of Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba Gandhi. As we entered the place a mystic serenity dawned upon us and flabbergasted at the reverential salutes offered by a group of Marathi ladies ahead of us in the Mandir. These kind of innocent gestures are indeed reflections of adulations of common man who hold the father of nation in high esteem. The original birthplace of Gandhiji is adjacent to Kirti Mandir. The Mandir is 79 ft high signifying the 79 eventful years of Gandhi. The Old house of Gandhi was bought by his great grandfather Harjivan Raidas Gandhi who renovated it into a three storied building with 22 rooms. A narrow path from Gandhi’s ancestral house leads to Kasturba’s house. The road leading to Kasturba’s house was raided by stray dogs and cows and was poorly maintained. We went inside the two-storied house and offered tributes to the undaunted, legendary women of our nation. Next we moved on to the gallery and museum which has a collection of various possessions of the Gandhi family and photographs. Mandir also has a Balamandir and a library. The place epitomises the triumph of truth and non-violence in India’s long struggle for Independence. The huge life-size oil paintings of Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba at the centre of the Mandir sanctify the place and emanate audacious vibrations. After this magnificent experience, we moved on to Mool Dwarka, our next stop.
 
Kirti Mandir
 
The room where Gandhiji was born
Kasturba's birthplace
Mool Dwarka is few kilometres away from Porbander, the place where Lord Krishna stopped after leaving Mathura. The place has several tiny temples with Sivaling on the path leading to the main entrance of the temple. The main temple has the idol of Ranncchod as Lord Krishna was called after tricking Kaalyavaan, who had a boon that he cannot be killed by any weapon, into a one to one battle and then flees to a lonely place. Infuriated Kaalyvaan then calls Krishna Ranncchod (one who flees the battle field). At this stage Krishna enters a cave where King Muchkund was sleeping. King Muchkund obtained a boon from Devatas that he would be asleep for a longtime and whosoever disturbs his sleeps would be burnt into ashes. Krishna tactful leaves his robe on the sleeping king and Kaalyavaan mistaking him for Krishna wakes him up and gets annihilated. The temple also has a Siddheshwar Mahadev   with a Swamyambhu Sivaling. Just opposite to this temple complex is an archway that leads to a two storied a step-well. Except for the main temple complex, other structures in that compound are deserted and poorly maintained. We were deeply upset by the gross neglect of the concerned authorities.  Alas!!! Places of religious significance which are adored by people were neglected and stagnated to ruins.

 
Mool Dwarka
Back to wheels, we commenced our journey after breaking for a late lunch towards Dwarka. The next important stopover was HarSiddhi Temple in the village Harshad. The route to Harsidhhi Temple was fantastic with back waters lashing towards the shores of this village. The beauty of these waters is enhanced by numerous water birds which are perching in the tall grass lands and trees nearby. HarSiddhi as an incarnation of Amba was worshipped by Lord Krishna who constructed a temple atop of the hill Koyla Dungar. It was kuladevi of yadavas. Later Jadgu Shah, a Jain merchant built a temple new temple in 13th century below the hill, we visited the temple below the hill where the main idol is worshipped now. There is a Harsiddhi mata temple in Ujjain, which was worshipped by Vikramaditya. It is believed that Vikramaditya requested the mata to come to his kingdom at Ujjain where he could worship her daily. The Goddess obliged and we were indeed lucky for having visited the temple in Ujjain as well.  We then quickly moved onto our final destination Dwarka.
HarSiddhi Temple
Dwarka is one of the ancient cities of India. It is regarded as one of the four most sacred Hindu pilgrimage sites of chardham. The other three are Rameshwaram, Badrinath and Puri. Located at almost the tip of Kathiawar peninsula, it was the capital city of Krishna who built his kingdom after leaving Mathura. It one of the oldest sunken cities and even now Archaeologists comprising a strong group of scuba divers are actively searching underwater in the Arabian Sea for the ancient artefacts of this city. Dwarka has the famous  Dwarakadeesh Temple (King of Dwarka, Lord Sri Krishna) originally constructed in 6th century on the banks of river Gomti by Krishna’s Grandson Vajranbha over Lord Krishna’s residential place. Around 8th century, Adi Shankaracharya visited the temple and worked towards its renovation. Currently a Shankaracharya mutt is constructed in his honour abutting the main temple.
Dwarkadeesh Temple
The present temple is 2500 years old five storied complex supported by 72 pillars with two entrances, the main entrance in the north (Moksha Dwar) and Southern entrance (Swarga Dwar). A flight of 56 steps from South entrance leads to the banks of river Gomti. It is believed that the original idol was hidden for several years to protect it from the Muslim invasions and an idol from Rukmini’s temple was installed in its absence.  Sri Vallabhacharya was believed to have reinstalled the original idol after the construction of new temple. The old temple was desecrated by a Muslim king Muhammed Shah in the year 1241 and was declared as panch peer after breaking the temple into five pieces.
 
Dwarakadeesh Temple in day light
The temple is also referred to as Jagad Mandir with exquisite carvings on outside while the interior of temple is strikingly simple. It has a mystic beauty in day light and under lights. Just inside as we enter through north entrance on to the right side there is an idol of Veneshwar Mahadev in the basement. The idol of Dwarakadeesh is 1 mt long made in a shiny black stone with four arms holding conch, chakra, a mace and a lotus. The temple complex has small temples dedicated to mother Devaki, consorts Rukmini, Jambavati and other queens, devotee Mirabhai, sons Pradhyumna, Anirudh and brother Balaram. Jagad Mandir has a very unique tradition of hoisting flag on the summit  of temple. The flag is 52 yards long with symbols of sun and moon and made in colours of green, yellow, pink, blue, red and white. It is changed five times a day. We had the privilege of watching one such flag installation ceremony. Devotees throng the temple premises and sing song in praise of Dwarakadeesh during the entire event. It is a spine chilling event to observe priests scaling 100 ft high for changing the flags. Though there was a continuous stream of tourists in the temple we could have a very quick darshan as no one was allowed to stand before the idol and pray. Consequently, we could even experience the supreme bliss of the Divine Harathi at night. From the temple’s south entrance we descended 56 stairs to reach the Gomti River. Since it has grown dark we couldn’t really enjoy its beauty but there were few devotees who were gently lowering diyas into the river.   
Rukmini Devi Temple
Then we strolled on the roads at night to experience the culture of the one of the oldest cities of India. The city has a huge population of cows and especially the smell of cow dung pervades across all the lanes of the market area. Undoubtedly they have the best dairy products which are relatively unadulterated and pure as compared to the milk available in cities.  Next morning we set out early to first visit Rukmini Devi temple 8 km from Dwarka in the north. It is a lonely temple sprung apart from the main city. Old legend about the temple says that sage Durvasa cursed Rukmini who took a sip of water without offering Durvasa. Angered by her impoliteness, he cursed that she would be separated from her husband for 12 years and it is also the reason why water in Dwarka is salty. The temple has a richly carved exterior with sculptures of various nartakis and elephants at the base. But sadly till date the people in that area have no access to uninterrupted supply of drinking water. Priests of the temple were urging tourists to make donations towards buying tankers of drinking water. As a token of gratitude to the donors a glass of drinking water is offered to all the visitors of temple as Prasad.
 
Rukmini Devi temple carvings
We then moved on to Nageswar Jyotirling, popularised by Gulshan Kumar of T-series who donated huge sums towards temple maintenance and development. Temple is relatively a newly construction and the sacred Sivaling is located in the basement of the sanctum sanctorum.  The Shivaling is in stone and it is trilobed at the top resembling the head of a rudraksha. Within the premises there is a huge statue of Lord Shiva. The calm and tranquil location of the temple offered sumptuous blessedness and rapture. On the way to Beyt Dwarka we stopped at Gopi Talav, 20 km from Dwarka. Locals say that unable to bear the pain of separation from Krishna, Gopis from Mathura came to visit him at this place. Further, after dancing with him for a last time on Sharad Purnima day, 999 Gopis offered their lives in this pond and merged with the Lord. It is believed that they have turned into yellow clay. Even now the soil of the pond is smooth and yellow and it is sold as Gopi Chandan. There are small temples of Krishna, Rukmini, SriRama and others adjacent to the pond. We were not really impressed as the real sheen is lost due to poor upkeep.
 
Nageshwar Jyotirling
 
 
Gopi Talav
Our next stop was Beyt Dwarka, an island, which can be reached from the Okha port in a boat. Okha is 30 km from Dwarka and the last point on the western frontier of India. By the time we reached Okha port, it was extremely crowded with visitors vying for a place in the the boats and almost all the boats were packed to the maximum limit. It was a hot sunny morning at 10am in the morning. Further the overcrowding on board and the heat of the reflected sunrays from the sea surface added to severe discomfort. As soon as we got off the boat, we engaged a autorickshaw to reach the temple, located inside narrow lanes.  Most of the religious scripts refer to Beyt Dwarka as the original abode of Lord Krishna. The huge temple which was 500 years old was built by Sri Vallabhacharya and the idol was believed to be built by Rukmini. The bright beautiful idol of the lord was a visual treat and mere glance of the Lord dispelled away our weariness. Beyt Dwarka was also the place where Krishna met his friend Sudhama. Some of the ancient relics were up for display in the inner chambers of the temple. Small temples are dedicated to Hanuman, SriRama, Mahadev, Rukmini, Satyabhama and Jambhavati inside the premises.  As we just came out of the temple we had a tough time escaping a huge herd of cows and on our return journey at the Okha port we were impromptu greeted by street vendors selling chilled dahi in earthen pots and plastic cups, a speciality of this place. We later found out that Beyt Dwarka is venerated and visited by Muslims and Sikhs in large numbers as the island has a shrine of Haji Kirmani Pir and a Gurudwara.
Traveling to Beyt Dwarka
In the evening we visited other tourist attractions within Dwarka. Almost all the temples in Dwarka are located close to the seashore. We first visited the light house and sat down at the sunset location to bid farewell to the waning sun. It was extremely beautiful sight and then walked on the sands and reached Bhadkeshwar Temple. The temple rests on the edge of the sea and offers an awesome view of the sea and sunset. A small path from the beach leads towards the temple built on the rocks lashed by the seawaters. It is small temple dedicated to Mahadev. After a nice camel ride on the beach, we left for Gayatri Shakti Peeth, a relatively new construction managed by a private trust. It had idols of Gayatri, Savitri and Lakshmi Devi. Next we visited a very old Siddheswar Mahadev temple.  It had very old water well and a bore pump in its front yard. The temple was very lively and brightly lit. Next we stopped at Swami Narayana Temple built within a guest house and maintained by BAPS (Bochasanwasi Shri Akshar Purushottam Swami Narayana Sansthan). After the darshan in the temple, we walked to the main market and savoured the local Gujarati Thalli for dinner. Our entire trip to Saurashtra was awesome. We left the place for Delhi with everlasting memories of the sacred places and the friendly people who made our trip remarkable.
 Sunset at Dwarka beach
Bhadkeshwar Mahadev Temple
 
 
 
Photography courtesy: Dr. Bhaskar Teegela and Samanvit Teegela
 
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2 comments:

Social Media said...

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Ramaharitha Pusarla said...

:) Welcome...