As a young girl who grew up in South India, I used to be in
awe when people used to describe about their travel experiences to various
places. Especially a visit to Northern part of India used to always excite me.
Unaware of what destiny has planned for me, I used to wonder whether I would
ever be able to travel and explore different places which used to fascinate me.
But I think destiny has its own plans for me and in spite of my strong
disaffection and reservations for New Delhi, we have to settle in the place and
make it our new home. Soon after settling in the capital city a strong urge to
explore and travel to different places began to take shape. The desire to visit
the hills areas and the deep fascination for the Snow Mountains has been the
reason for our trip to McLeod Ganj, the place which became popular for its
association with the spiritual leader Dalai Lama.
We began our exciting journey by a train from New Delhi which
took us to Chandigarh. Chandigarh is acclaimed to be the best planned city in
our country. Being a capital city of two states, Punjab and Haryana and
remaining as Union territory, I was expecting massive administrative building
all over the place. Living up to its reputation, the city was really clean for
Indian standards. It was undoubtedly, a beautiful place and the city have
clearly demarcated regions where the administrative offices of the two states
functioned. Another interesting aspect which caught my attention was the
presence of hawk eyed policemen who have kept a rigorous surveillance on the
suspicious activities of people. The vigilance in the city is of highest order
and the security personnel are on tenter-hooks as the region is believed to be
threat prone.
We began to embark our journey to Dharamshala by road which
is 252 kilometres from Chandigarh. The initial part of the journey was rather
dull as we have to travel through heavily jammed roads on the outskirts of the
Chandigarh, but as we slowly moved on to the highways, the scenery on either of
the road has become more pleasant. The lush green fields of Punjab would entice
any lover of greenery. The most important places we have encountered on our way
to Himachal Pradesh were the Anandpur Sahib a city constructed by Guru
TejBahadur and houses a prominent Gurudwara on the highway built in Israeli
style, Nangal which is 15km from Bhakra Nangal Dam, the highest gravity dam of
India and even passed through the canal which carries Satluj waters to Haryana.
As we crossed, Mehatpur, the last city of Punjab, we entered Himachal Pradesh.
Himachal Pradesh has the largest area under hilly terrains
and as we travelled more into the state, the roads have started becoming narrower,
windy and the elevation of the road began to rise. As we passed the plains and
began moving towards hills, the glimpses of the extended range of mountains
covered with snow at the peak allured us. These changes are accompanied by the
pleasant weather and we started experiencing cold and chilly breeze caressing
us. The effect of the climate and elevation is more conspicuous on the
vegetation. The broader leaves of trees are slowly replaced by rows of trees
with leaves that are narrow and spiny as we moved up the hills. With every
kilometre of travel on hills, we began to experience a new sensation of fresh
air sweeping off weariness of the long travel. The estimated time of travel was
5 hours, but bad roads at certain stretches have delayed our journey. Travelling
through the hills, away from the hustle and bustle of city has quietened every
nerve of the body. The close encounter with nature was exhilarating and the
hills with the lush green vegetation were a visual treat to our eyes. All
through the travel, we stopped regularly after few miles of journey to savour
the beauty of the mountains. We passed through the city of Kangra, a famous tourist
destination, known for its natural beauty and tea gardens. Kangra fort and the
Devi Vajreswari temple, the oldest and wealthiest temple of north India are the
main tourist attractions. The change of climate especially the lower level of
oxygen on hills seems to bother us a little now. Dharamshala is 36 km from
Kangra and it is the winter capital of Himachal Pradesh. It is blooming city
with sizeable Tibetan population. The place has become famous for its highest
cricket stadium which is the home ground for the IPL team Kings XI Punjab. The
city has two distinct parts; the lower Dharamshala has civil offices and
business establishments. Upper Dharamshala has the suburbs, Kotwali Bazar, McLeod
Ganj, Sidhbari. McLeod Ganj is popularly called Little Lhasa for the huge
population of Tibetan Refugees. It is 9km from Dharamshala at an elevation of
2,080 mt. The region between Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj has a huge cantonment,
cantonment where several battalions of Gurkha rifles are stationed to meet any
unwarranted insurgencies. But by the time we reached McLeod ganj, it has become
dark and hence we had to wait till morning to unravel the picturesque beauty of
the place. But as we ascended to McLeod Ganj, which is at a much higher
elevation, we were marvelled by the splendid night view of the place. All the
shimmering lights from the houses, reminded us of the twinkling light of the
stars spread on the carpet of night dark sky was a heart warming sight. We
moved past the busy market area of McLeod ganj gallivanted by busy tourists
crowding the shops in the market area under the brightly lit municipal lights
to reach our hotel. We have booked our rooms in a place called Naddi village, 4
km from Mc Leod Ganj and it located at a much higher elevation.
As we reached our resting place, we were flabbergasted by the
awesome view of the majestic mountain ranges. We were delighted by the choice
of our hotel and the fantastic view it has offered as we opened the balcony
door and windows of the room. We were hardly 4 km away from the mountains and
the foot of the ranges was at a walking distance from our hotel. The brightly
lit full moon sky had enhanced the bewitching beauty of the snowy tips of the
mountains, which seem to glitter. This spectacular view of the Dauladhar range
or The Indian Himalayas also called the lower Himalayan range has for a while
quenched our passion for the Himalayas. We could hardly wait for the sunrise.
The next morning, minutes after the sunrise, as the blanket
of fog began to lodge away from the mountain ranges lazily; we had the first
glimpse of the pristine mountains. Camera could capture and lock the beauty of
the mountains, our minds and hearts are totally filled with the tranquil
atmosphere of the place. Away from the maddening crowds and huddling rush, the
calmness it offered rejuvenated heart and mind as well. People there believe
that any unhealthy person could get back on their heels much faster in this mountainous
ecosystem. The sparkling waters which gush down the mountain range, have
medicinal properties and can cure all the ailments. The fresh air and the pure
water energies us completely. After filling our minds and body with the
resplendent beauty of mountains, we set on to explore the rustic beauty of the “Deva
Bhumi”. 2km down the hill from Naddi village is the sacred Dal Lake (1900mt), a
natural water body. It is surrounded by the Deodar pines which make it an
excellent picnic spot. There is a small temple of Durveshwar Mahadev by the
side of the lake. We then headed to McLeod Ganj to reach the Bhagsu Nag temple
and Bhagsu waterfalls. The temple is dedicated to Lord Siva with a fresh waters
spring. The waterfalls are 1.5km from the temple but the road is not accessible
to motor vehicles. Hence we had to climb
up a little to reach the falls, the pure, unsullied water gushing out of the
waterfall and the mist emanating from the fall is a delightful experience. We
have to walk through a small Tibetan market as we descended from the waterfalls.
Our next stop was the most important Buddhist temple Tsuglagkhnag
or the Dalai Lama temple which had the statues of Shakyamuni, Avalokitesvara
and Padmasambhava. It houses the huge collection of the original preaching of
Buddha written in Sanskrit. The exquisite beauty of the statues and the
numerous Tibetan Lama’s added to the integral beauty of the temple. This place
is seat of Tibetan cultural activities and the place is known for Tibetan souvenirs,
garments, carpets and handicrafts.
We then decided to travel to Sidhabari, 10 Km from McLeod
Ganj the final resting place of Swami Chinmayananda. On the way we saw the
newly built legislative assembly of Himachal Pradesh just abutting the Chinmaya
Tapovan. My face was beaming with happiness as we stepped inside the Tapovan
complex. It was my dream as a youngster to visit the place and rest my head in
the lap of the great Indian spiritual leader. When I rested my head at the feet
of Swamiji’s statue to pay my humble salutations, I felt a shudder of joy pass
through my body. Every grain of the sand
in the Tapovan seemed more pious, for it is the home of the most revered
Swamiji. The complex has a huge lively, imposing statue of Lord Hanuman, a
temple of Lord Rama, located among the overarching branches of a beautifully
maintained garden. The picturesque beauty and the majestic disposition of the Tapovan
guarded by the huge mountain ranges offered an inexplicable bliss and happiness
to any restive soul. Undoubtedly, the solace and peace of mind it proffered makes
it the best place for meditation. Though I wanted to spend few more hours at
the sacred place, we were constrained by time. Unwillingly, we headed to our
next destination, Baijnath Mandir 55km from Dharamshala and 16km from Palampur.
Palampur is a very big town with a sprawling Agriculture University. On the
way, we stopped at the famous tea gardens of the Kangra valley.
Baijnath Mandir (1314mt) is a temple dedicated to Lord Siva,
located on the banks of river Binwa, a tributary of Beas River. The temple has
been continuously under worship from the 12th century when the
temple was constructed. It is a typical North India temple built in Nagara
Style. The old inscriptions on the temple walls suggest that it was the place
where Ravana after his intense penance sought the Divine blessings for
immortality and invincibility. He then urged Lord Siva to accompany him to
Lanka, Siva transformed into a Sivaling. Ravana was carrying him to Lanka, but then
was tricked by a Devata and he had to rest the Sivaling in this place. The
temple attracts huge scores of tourists as it is considered as swamyambhu. At
present the temple is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of
India and the rituals are performed by the local temple board. Throughout our
entire course of travel we were really surprised by the invincible Wi-Fi
connectivity. The construction of roads is extremely difficult task in the
hills. But barring very stretches of bad roads, we travelled through well built
roads. The people of this region were extremely friendly, cooperative,
conceited and the regular deceit a trademark of the tourist places in India is
absent. Our entire travel has been a massive hit because of the people who were
very accommodating and helpful. Another important feature was the overwhelming
presence of huge areas of the hills under the cantonments. Perhaps, their intervention
has been the reason for the well maintenance of the infrastructure.
After this arduous journey of the day, we returned to our
hotel rooms at night and enjoyed the mesmerising beauty of the mountains on a
full moon night. With all the fond memories and experiences of the Divine
Hills, we had to head back to the regular din and clamour of the cramped city
roads. On way back to Chandigarh, we managed to squeeze time for a quick visit
to the illustrious Rock Garden. We were extremely satisfied with our trip which
has been a journey through the untamed nature. It offered the much needed
solace and peace of mind. Body and mind are now recharged to gear up for new
tasks and adventures in the busy world of the metropolis.
Chinmaya Tapovan, Sidhbari
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